EDIT #2 - February 2015: This thread shows my 2014 drift season and then goes into 2015 and serves as a basic build thread for the car and a chronicle of things happening with the car. If you have any questions about the build that arent answered then just check the previous 2013 build thread (linked below) or just ask.
EDIT - May 2014: No longer gonna be doing a VH45 swap. Staying CA20ET powered for now.
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This is the official start of my 2014 build. Heres the thread from 2013's build/season. http://club-s12.org/retro4/index.php?topic=36188
Heres the car in action during 2013
Its an 86 hatch. Originally a higher optioned CA20 car with a 5 speed.
Heres a brief rundown of how the car is already modified:
-Stripped down
-Roll cage
-S12/13/14 hybrid front suspension/steering setup
-S12 Turbo R200 rear end, welded
-Silhouette Autosports adjustable rear trailing arms (https://www.facebook.com/SilhouetteAutosports) made by me
-600lb/in Eibach springs on adjustable perches in the rear
-CA20ET setup with side by side radiator/intercooler. 10psi boost and 185whp dyno'd
Planned changes for 2014:
-VH45DE swap
-Mod the oil pan to be low profile, high capacity, and baffled/gated.
-New Silhouette Autosports Z31 adjustable rear arms with the better vented brakes
-New front coilovers or find inserts for the 1st gen Cusco ones I have
-Mod steering knuckles for more angle and reduced ackerman, they're currently stock S13
-Replace foxbody mustang KYB shocks with E-150 KYB shocks
-Strip the whole car down and paint it white inside and out, add vinyl Silvia Super Silhouette livery
-Possibly make the switch to 17 inch wheels but I might stay on 15s
-Initially I'm going to run no power steering still but if it turns out I need it because of all the added weight up front I'll go with a MR2 electric pump and probably mount it under the dash
I've had the VH45 since late 2010. Heres the donor car. A wrecked but running fine 94 Infiniti Q45
The engine still in the Q
Pulling it out back in early 2011. Thanks to Jason (sideways_s12), Kendra (Mrs.Sideways_S12), Jeremy (Jeremy A), and Jake for all the help. It was a team effort.
Z32 300ZX non-turbo manual trans. Got lucky and snagged it out of the junkyard
Mazworx trans adapter plate. Allows the trans to bolt to the engine. Unfortunately theres no manual trans that bolts straight to the VH45 
Started going thru and removing the BS and labeling the harness today

I have high hopes for this build. Not a day goes by that I dont daydream about drifting while making V8 noises. Of course time and money are both worries. Theres a lot to do in this off season and not much time. I've been lucky so far to be able to take my time and fish out the best deals but now its go time.
Thanks for reading and stay tuned!
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86 Hatch Drift Build; From VegasDrift to ClubLoose
I like how my vg30e when I rev her up, it almost has the deep v8 sounding. This is why I like my vg30, the power it throws and torque is just there, but I can't wait to see what the vh45de sounds like built up, and I heard about the oil starving when sideways with this motor, I wonder if you have heard about this as well? I heard of the fix before but I do not recall this was someone who planned a swap to their s13.
Let's go! I can't wait to hear her fire up!
Wonderingraven on 08:40:27 PM / 05-Dec-13I heard about the oil starving when sideways with this motor, I wonder if you have heard about this as well? I heard of the fix before but I do not recall this was someone who planned a swap to their s13.
Yeah the vh45de seems to have this reputation as I have heard this from a few different sources as well. If you read Iggy's plans for it though he said he plans on modifying it for a higher capacity and baffles which should hopefully solve the oil starvation issues when going sideways.
Yeah, that is it... I forgot what it was. Hah! so never mind then he has it covered like a baws!
That's gonna be a fun ride bro. All that grunt and a light weight chassis. Good times.
I want a ridealong when this gets up and running.
Thanks guys. for sure gonna sound ridiculous. you have no idea. and yes the vh is known to spin/score rod bearings while drifting with an OE oil pan. ARP rod bolts are on the to-do list. I could run an Accu-sump but idk if its in the budget. although i've heard you can build one for a lot cheaper. we will see. Still gonna mod the pan for clearance either way.
RIDE ALONGS FOR EVERYONE!!
provided mine is running and tuned I want to run you when you get the motor in there I want to see how I stack up...
well you will have the advantage of lighter weight and probably more power as well sooooooooo. but i'll still run it!!
Today they released the 2014 Vegas ProAM schedule.
Good news and bad news. Good news is there are more practice days and 5 Rounds of competition instead of 4. Bad news is some of them are going to be held in Arizona. Makes no sense to me why VEGASdrift would happen in AZ. I guess its like a shared round or something. The REAL bad news is round 1 is in mid january. thats basically just over 1 month from now. no where near the time i need to do much of anything on my list. I think getting the motor swapped in that time will be tough but possible. Between round 1 and round 2 is a gap of about 2 months. AND round 2 is in AZ which I only have a small chance of getting to run. In fact if I dont make round 1 its entirely possible I wont be drifting AT ALL until April. that blows. But they did say they are trying to do round 1 in Feb instead of Jan. Idk why its so hard but whatever.
Anyway I'm kinda bummed on this schedule. it pretty much makes everything I'm trying to do harder. We will see how things go.
I am actually going to take a small break and wait till April, to get some seat time but will come on the local events to support, It's odd but I think it's because they partnered with IFO. Hence why they are also following the IFO Schedule now in AZ and Bakersfield.
Yeah I don't think I'll have the weight advantage lol I believe I weigh more than your motor lol so my full interiored car along with my big ass I'll probably be heavier than your car with you in it. Also as far as power goes that depends on funds lol it's possible that I will still be on 5psi by the time your done. I think itll be close...
ya but my engine it 500lbs alone. yours is 280lbs. maybe we are even. should be interesting
ok I don't weigh more than your motor lol but definitely should be interesting...
Got a little more work done on the engine and got a few small things in the mail. Ordered my clutch and flywheel setup. Next thing on my list is machining the bellhousing
Nice!
Ebay clutch and flywheel set. Z32 NA (VG30DE)
Flywheel is 11.5lbs
Whats the pedal going to feel like? Close to stock or more of an on off switch...
well the hardest clutch to drive was on the ca18det. it was a solid puck as well but with a 9lb flywheel on a light rotating assembly 4 cyl. The ca20et is a solid 4 puck act but its on a stock flywheel so its a little easier not to stall it. This one will be easier than the ca18det was too cuz its a v8. As far as how hard the pedal is to push down. that depends on the pressure plate clamping load. none of these pressure plates I've had are high load plates. its just the clutch disc material thats grabbier.
I got a few more small things for the build. Flywheel bolts cuz the stock flexplate bolts on the motor are too short. a flywheel is thicker than a flexplate. I got ARP rod bolts. Just to help protect against a spun rod bearing. I got a couple more gaskets I needed and I got some steel to build the motor mounts and mod the trans mount with.
I also got the S12Silvia.com 2014 calender. Check out July! http://www.redbubble.com/people/s12silvia/calendars/11204090-s12silvia-com-2014-calendar
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sideways_s12 on 09:19:17 PM / 21-Dec-13
Whats the pedal going to feel like? Close to stock or more of an on off switch...
Forgot to answer your question. On/off switch
what stage is the clutch kit?
Lol My throttle feels like an on/off switch clutch feels stock.
yeaaa!!! remote turbo that biatchh!
they call the clutch a Stage 4.
Theres a guy on v8nissans.com that remote turboed his vh45 s14. he says its running amazing. low boost but hes on stock injectors/ecu. supercharger guys are seeing 400+ to the wheels on less than 10psi so it seems like a simple boost setup is more than worth it.
maybe 2015 will be the year for a 450 horse boosted v8 s12 drifting
The other day I got the engine on the stand and did a little cleanup on it. tomorrow i should be able to get a few seals and gaskets done on the motor while its on the stand and then get it off the stand and get the flywheel/clutch/trans on. Thats my goal. Then wednesday I might pull the ca20 out of the car and test fit the v8. with the test fit I'll figure out where the mounts need to be and how deep the oil pan needs to be. After that I can build mounts and the pan. and after that the major hurdles are exhaust, wiring, build shifter, and have the driveshaft shortened.
flexplate off
flywheel test fitted
engine on stand. cleaning up in the valley 
This will be a beast...
This will decimate all when you boost at 10psi maybe a tad more.
Lol at the remote mount idea. Getting traction is likely going to be challenging enough with the basic vh45 bolt ons let alone a remote mount.
remote turbo setups are sick! just cutout the trunk area and run it! theres no room for that turbo crap in the bay, just the tricky part is to keep the headers off the steering shaft
ive also seen a pikes peak s13 ka24det with the remote mount behind the passenger seat, the intake was in the 1/4 window on the pass side too, it looked awesome
I would def supercharge it no worries about all the turbo mounting shit. I know that's not the goal right now but if you plan to boost you should go supercharged instead of turbo you will most likely have to cut the hood to fit said supercharger or find a turbo hood/scoop
if i did a supercharger it would probably be a protech/vortech style centrifugal one but that adds weight way up front. the stock vh intake manifold is actually super hugh and is tuned specifically for NA power and torque. It wouldnt be that hard to build a super low profile intake flange with very short runners and bolt some kind of larger Eaton style supercharger to it. thats probably the absolute best way to supercharge it. but remote turbo still has the advantage tho. Turbos are just so damn efficient at making power. Only real issue with the remote mount is how to run the charge pipe back to the engine. the standard way is under the car but idk if I like that. the other way is inside the car but i'm not sure how legal that is for competition. the guy I mentioned earlier ran his inside the car and through the firewall on the passenger side
Got absolutely nothing done yesterday. I didnt realize my girl was off work but she was so i spent the day with her. we rarely get days off together. Today I worked. Tomorrow i'm off. gonna do everything i said i was gonna do yesterday. It hit me today that there are only 17 days now until round 1. less than half of those days I'll be able to get any work done on the car. So I'm gonna run round 1 with the ca20et and then start tearing the car apart afterwards. before round 1 I'm gonna get some new inserts for my coilovers. they were bouncin like a bitch last time i drifted. the LF has been leaking fluid since 2010 so its long overdue.
Sweet, at least you are going to run this event. I will be out there for support.
thanks Gary. You should run the practice!
speaking of 10psi. that would be the goal for the stock fuel system. a guy with a vh45 z32 just recently put down 469whp 464wtq on 10psi with 2 smaller rear mounted twins. stock fuel system
IggyEGuana on 11:15:12 PM / 01-Jan-14
thanks Gary. You should run the practice!
I might it all depends on a few things right now one is being that I am getting hired on and second might be cash for it as I wont be getting paid for a few weeks. But I plan to swing it if I can though.
awesome!
Another possible slight advantage of supercharging over turbocharging for your application is the more predictable arrival of the boost. Not so much for stuff like drifting where the RPMs remain comparatively high and on throttle, but for stuff like autocross where more of the RPM range is used sudden spikes in power can be sort of counter productive. Again, not as bit a deal for your application but it is an often overlooked factor.
As for Procharger -vs- Vortech . . . I have not worked with all models of both, but for the models I have worked with for both I would recommend a Vortech V1/V3 model over a comparable Procharger unit. It is a great performing unit for mid-small size V8 flow and has much better failure containment should something go wrong.
Semi threadjack as requested by Iggy in PM . . .
Expanding on my Procharger -vs- Vortech comments, both are capable units with different drawbacks and benefits. I have had the opportunity to work with several Vortech models and a few Procharger models both on vehicles and test benches purpose built to measure flow, temperature rise, etc. Based on this testing I tend to prefer Vortech units over Procharger when possible. As many of you will recall, I work primarily on aircraft so the factors that are of paramount importance to me are different from the average automotive hot-rodder but there is still some carry over.
I have a friend with a dedicated 1/4 mile car who runs the largest unit Procharger makes, pretty much as hard as he can run it. He runs high 8's and the blower is working beautifully. We use a Procharger C2 on one of our aircraft kits and it changes the capabilities of the aircraft. It runs cool and does pretty much everything we could have hoped for. Another plus for Procharger is that they offer a MUCH wider range of sizes. The A,B and C blowers are small enough to run on motorcycles efficiently. I don't believe there is currently another supercharger manufacturer out there that can claim the same. The location flexability of an internally lubricated blower not much bigger than a football can be the determining factor when designing a custom system. So why do I prefer Vortech??? We will start with the compressor wheel design. The beautiful swirly bit that fills the snail that we all love. Look closely at this picture of a Procharger C-2 model blower.
If you look closely you can see what looks like lines on the compressor wheel deeper down inside the volute. Along the fins themselves you will see what looks sort of like an orange peel pattern. I can assure you those are all tall enough to feel with your finger/fingernail and cover every surface of the compressor wheel. Procharger machines their compressor wheels and does not clean them up perfectly smooth. If they do coat them with some sort of Teflon or other anti-corrosion product it is not thin enough to noticeably smooth out the machining marks. While the performance offered is still terrific I can't help but wonder if they could get a little better flow if those important surfaces were smooth. But since the performance is there it doesn't matter too much on that front. Where it does matter is during catastrophic failure. More on that in a moment. Beyond the compressor wheel, the gear cases themselves tend to be thicker and heavier than Vortech blowers (not sure if there is any benefit because I have never seen a Vortech case crack), the bearings are on par with Vortech, shaft/gear life is the same, but we have had better luck with the seals on the Procharger units for some reason. Basic volute and compressor wheel design and pairing however is far below the Vortech standard though. Again, more about that in a moment. As for unit longevity, we have not had Prochargers in our product line long enough to have any real data here. I expect they will be on par with Vortech but only time will tell.
Vortech units also run exceptionally cool and (for our aviation applications anyway) are fabulously efficient. They are super light, easy and inexpensive to rebuild if needed. If you look closely at this picture of a Vortech compressor wheel you will notice some differences from the Procharger unit.
The entire surface is completely smooth save for a couple of notches at the center. Upon closer investigation you will notice that the tolerances between the fins and the volute are tighter and the fins themselves appear thicker. None of these are illusions. Both the finish of the wheel and it's fitment to the volute are far better. While the thickness difference can be measured in .001 of an inch it is of vital importance. Other important notes specific to my experience with Vortech blowers . . . some of them will slowly seep a film of oil from the input shaft, some never do. This is more of a nuisance but it is noteworthy. Also, if you are not using an internally lubricated unit you need to be absolutely sure you have a downhill run on your oil return. Any pooling of oil inside either brand will cause the same conditions as it being starved for oil. As I stated before, I don't have any real data on how Prochargers will last under these conditions but I do know that Vortech shafts and bearings will last far longer than I would dare tell anybody to push them and still function, albeit at a diminished capacity. I have seen some seriously discolored, chewed up internals that you could hear and feel grinding when you turned them by hand, but the customer only complained about "less boost these days".
So, why all the attention to the compressor wheel and comments about catastrophic failure? First, being held to aviation certification standards we have had to perform "rotor burst" tests on every model of blower we have presented to the FAA. This is normally done by introducing "foreign debris" into the supercharger while it is running. A spectacularly painful and expensive test to execute I assure you, but the results have been awe inspiring. Passing small metal objects (nuts, scrap sheet metal, etc.) into the vortech created some horrible gouges in the compressor wheel, dings in the volute, and lots of metal particles shooting out the end of the ductwork across the parking lot from our test bench . . . but the blower kept producing boost! Introducing the end of a metal wire produced hundreds of dings on the ends of the fins and lots of metal dust on the output . . . but the blower kept working. The FAA insists that the "rotor bursts". In the end we had to drill a series of holes in the compressor wheel and cut it with a die grinder to make it weak enough to fly apart inside the volute. The result? Since the remaining portion of the rotor was so strong, and the tolerances were so tight the free pieces got wedged against the wall of the volute, the blower froze in place and the belt overheated and snapped off. That blower was rebuilt and is flying today. Starting the same test with the Procharger unit was also the end. When we introduced a small piece of sheet metal a chunk (not a nick) of a fin broke off with it, the both broke off more fins, and much like dropping a ping pong ball on a mousetrap, they all proceeded to rip the compressor wheel into a thousand pieces of it's former self. Unlike the Vortech it kept spinning, but created zero boost. Procharger now has thicker fins on the compressor wheels of at least the C-2 model blowers, not sure about the rest of the model line. Long story short, the Vortech contained all but the smallest particles of itself inside the volute when the compressor wheel exploded, the Procharger ripped itself into many sizes and sent them all across the parking lot, which would have been your engine. While neither are good, I think dust passing through the engine has a smaller chance of causing catastrophic engine failure than random dust including dime sized chunks. Oddly enough, both passed the FAA's test since neither of them caused the entire blower to come apart. The burst was "contained" within the volute by both. Since sharp corners in metal are more prone to cracking than smooth surfaces or rounded corners I suspect that all of the machining lines on the compressor wheel contributed greatly to it's failure mode in addition to the thinner design.
The second important point to make on the importance of the compressor/volute design paring comes from the need for smooth flow into and out of the snail. One of the things we all love about turbos and superchargers is blower whine/whistle. The Vortech does this wonderfully at idle but quiets down as the RPM go up. Sort of disappointing but exhaust (and for me propeller noise) are going to drown out most or all of it anyway under load. The Procharger C-2 is the only model I have had on my test bench and it once again is an entirely different beast. In fact, the first time my father tested it I called him a liar, declared he was doing something wrong, then came back to work that day to prove it . . . only to see what he had already claimed. At idle the Procharger sounded like a tornado. No whine at all. Just the noise you get when you stick your head out a car window going 55mph. Strange, but it will make sense in a minute. As we increased the RPM up to full operation the noise from the blower didn't seem to change much but again, it is difficult to tell with all of the other noise going on around. Back down to idle and the sound of rushing wind again. What the hell is that? Turns out it is air being forced back OUT of the inlet. You read that right. Only about 75% of the radius of the blower inlet was sucking air in. The other 25% was pushing air back OUT of the blower. As part of our testing we restrict airflow into the superchargers by holding a piece of sheet metal over the inlet. Holding it over that side of the inlet it kept getting blown out of the way, not sucked flat. At higher RPM this behavior appears to go away, but at idle it is very much there and very easy to demonstrate. Talking with our sources at Vortech they reported having the same problem with some of theirs and fixed it by changing the shape of the intake portion of the volute. I have not had the chance to run the same test on other Procharger models but that kind of problem unchecked on one model doesn't inspire confidence. Fortunately, for most applications this doesn't really cause a problem, but if you plan on designing a draw-thru carbureted design you better plan on a fair amount of ducting between the carb and the blower. All carburetors are is a calibrated air leak, and air pushing its way back through the carb is going to be extremely difficult (read impossible) to tune.
All that said, we use, sell and endorse both. As with any part in any application you work within or around the limitation of the parts you MUST use. If everything were equal I would have elected to use a Vortech instead of the Procharger for that kit, but Vortech doesn't offer anything close to as small as the Procharger unit and for it's flaws, it still works exceedingly well. I doubt anybody would be disappointed in either unless they just happened to get a bad one from the factory. Lets face it, every product will have a flaw come out from time to time. Just sharing my opinion at Iggy's request based on my actual experiences over 2 decades of testing.
thanks for posting
strut inserts and rear shocks are ordered.
Inserts are KYB AGX part #765015 for the front of a 92 Toyota MR2. Theyre for my 1st gen Cusco Comp-S S13 coilovers. I have to mod them a little to fit but it should work. I'll post pics.
The shocks are Monroe Gas Magnum part #34899 for the front on a 1980 Ford E-150. I got them on closeout from Rockauto for $15 each! Last 2 they had.
****EDIT****
Dont order front E-150 shocks. Theyre too short. Order rears.
This looks dope.
Best of luck fitting that transmission in the S12s tiny transmission tunnel, I foresee cutting in your future!
-dan
I forgot how big 45s are! It's gonna be like riding a rollercoaster!....mad fun!
Thanks guys
No cutting. Only hammering. it fits S13s and 14s fine. Which trans does your rb swap run? the rb25/26 have the same box as the vg30de/t (R30A)
Went to the junkyards on my days off. Scored a rearview mirror out of a 96 Maxima. It goes on the ceiling with 3 screws just like a S13 mirror does. For those that dont know. under the light/headliner is the holes for the mirror. Even tho our mirrors were attached to the glass we still got the holes. So its an easy switch. I also got a pair of no name meshies 15x6 not sure of offset but its fwd style like +20 or 30. 4x100 lug pattern. Perfect for a honda. They came off a early 90s Celica. And the big score was another Z32 NA trans. Just gonna have it as a spare.
Crunch time before round 1.
Time off approved. Event fee paid. I still have tires from last event. I might get 1 fresh pair. Going to run my normal rear wheels as well as the S12 turbo meshies I have with spacers behind them as 2 pair of rears. So I'll have 3 pair of rear wheels already with tires mounted. Less hassle than trying to get tires mounted several times during the day. I got the front and rear shocks in the mail but I ordered the wrong thing for the rear so I'm returning those. The fronts dont fit quite how I hoped and I was going to order different ones and return those too but the replacements are on backorder.
The KYBs for the front. Not counting the extra piece welded to the bottom the body is 12 7/8" long.

More pics of fitting these into S13 Cusco Comp-S front coilovers to come.
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Pic of Z32 NA trans number 2

Alright. East Coast Bash was a success. 2 days prior my girl decided she was gonna go with me so that made travel easier cuz i could put stuff in her car and mine instead of cramming it all into mine. We got up early and left the house just before 6. drove 2 hours from Mays Landing NJ to Englishtown NJ. Everything went smooth with check-in and getting a spot in the pits. Unloaded the cars and setup our little area. Switched the front tires to the track pair and then got tech'd. They nabbed me for having worm gear clamps on my fuel line. Luckily I found a guy with extra fuel line clamps and got them switched and the car successfully through tech. Then waited for the driver's meeting and after that it was finally time to drive.













Anyone in the north east should consider doing a ClubLoose event. It was a blast. One unexpected side effect was the realization of just how much VegasDrift (now called Southwest Drift Series) is focused on competition and preparing drivers for it. Everything about VegasDrift was run like a mini FD event and the mentality was always to prepare for pro level drifting. Every event, even practice ones. All the drivers meetings are FD style. Even just the title of the practice days. Its a Practice Event. Practice for competition. Its not just for fun, its practice. Thats the mindset of the Southwest Drift Series and I cant fault them for that. If youre a driver who's goal is to get your pro2 FD license and compete at a higher level then I highly recommend SW Drift. They run a very professional ProAM and it will prepare you for the big leagues as best a ProAM ever could. I had to retrain my brain at ECB. They are all about having fun and it shows in ways I never even realized. At the drivers meeting they dont talk about line at all. There isnt even a course map. I actually raised my hand at the end and asked if we were going to do a parade lap to see the
course layout and they said "just take it slow and you'll figure it out. its easy." It was a complete drift culture shock but I had a ton of fun. They have 2 courses. Front and back. The front course is a little longer and has a more natural flow. The back course was a little more technical. Both were a lot of fun. If youre anywhere near here you should check it out. The guys I pitted next to drove about 5 hours. Its worth it.
Awesome pics IggyEGuana! One of my goals is to actually watch an S12 drift at a track which I have never experienced before. I will have to travel to Los Angeles or Vegas to watch one.
Soon as I get one of the 2 track cars ready, bring an extra helm and I will give ya a ride a long at one of the Vegas Drift events.
Thanks. Thes a red mk2 running the Top Drift series at Willow Springs this year. Also you can see Gary (wonderingraven) in vegas doing the practice VegasDrift events.
Post Merge
Lol gary you posted right before me. DRIFTING!
You can technically compete with out a cage right just wont be able todo the tandem part? if I even make it in the top 16.
Cool! Give me the details as the date gets closer. This would be a trip worth driving (or flying).
Glad ClubLoose was a success! The main thing though is you had fun driving your car. That's what it's all about!
Glad your out ripping again. Looks like a fun track
Going on thurs to meetup with a S12 owner in Deptford NJ like 40 minutes from me. He has an SE that hes finishing up an auto to manual swap on.
My Alternator isnt charging for whatever reason. Gonna troubleshoot that this week. Need to count tires and order what I need real soon them mount them. Carlisle PA Nicofest is my next drift day. Its actually 2 days and its a bigass car show called Carlisle Performance & Style in addition to the Nico event. I'm already preregistered. I'm gonna be drifting and doing a little auto-x just cuz i'm curious how it'll grip with normal tire pressure plus it was no extra fee. Also gonna be hanging out with a crew from upstate NY area and enjoying the other festivities for the weekend.
Next planned drifting after that is Freedom Moves at ClubLoose E-Town in Sept.
Good luck Iggy. Go kick some ass!