84 notch supercharged 1uzfe stage 2 drift build

Nice!

crazy ass build!!!

I got this wacked out idea today that im gonna make my own fender flares out of steel, either gonna be a success or a huge failure waste of time. If it works then theyll be way more durable than the fiberglass ones..well heres how i started Index cards,masking tape, scissors, coat hanger bamm maddd jdm poke.

Very nice trimming! lol

Man those look dope I like where this is going.

Cant wait to see it finished...

If you make it workill pay you  to make me some man. Lookslike u gota good idea going keep it up

Today was my day off so i got to do some more work on the zombie deflectors for the s12, i headed straight to the local steel supply and picked up some sheets of 18 guage steel and cut some pieces out of the template i made..Check it out






Rifleman..if your seriously interested let me know i can definetly make you a set, id price them around 180 for all four cut and bent. If you have a turbo hood scoop i would take a trade on that too.

Lookin smooth there pal

those look like they turned out pretty good

Lol ya im serious bro. Will they fit over turbo skirts on both side's?  And I dont have a turbo hood iv beentrying to find one forever now. But I do have abour 60% of turbo peaces lol.

Steady progress on the car, after doing some research on driveline angles i determined mine was not even close to being right. The engine and trans had a pretty mean angle downwards and so did the pinion..about 4 degrees negative on both to be exact..from what i understand they need to be opposite so that slip yoke and rear pinion are parallel to each other. So anyways i jacked the trans up as far as possible and modified my crossmember and then chopped half inch off the motor mounts to bring the front down. Im really close to 90 degrees now with the trans output and the diff still has 4 degrees of negative downward angle, if i get bad vibes im gonna go with the techno toy adjustable control arms.

Yup trans just popping through the floor now..

gripforce Mr2 pressure plate came in, using a spec ceramic ka24de disc and toyotav8.com flywheel

My taiwanese Brides showed up a couple days ago before work

After failing at making the factory sliders work i just decided to solid mount the seats for the lowest position possible, the out side bracket looks a little weird i dont think ill have any issues..

Slapped the dashboard in sat in it and invisioned drifting while dodging zombies, yup it works

Not bad...not bad at all

Any reason why you failed re-using the sliders? I have the same seat to instal and I'm hoping to use the sliders.

Nice progress, keep up the good work!

DjayS12 on 03:08:52 AM / 20-Apr-13Any reason why you failed re-using the sliders? I have the same seat to instal and I'm hoping to use the sliders.

Nice progress, keep up the good work!

Finally got a chance to get the car up on jack stands to start the tear down, bought some harbor freight 12 ton stands so I can get it super high off the ground.


I pulled the dash board out so I can figure out where the cage is going to come down in front of the firewall, also decided to run a redtop top optima that I scored for a really good deal. I thought putting the battery behind the passenger seat would give me better weight dispertion since im now going to have the supercharger and all the stuff to support it up front. I used 1/2 inch angle iron and made a square frame which is basically welded straight to the floor with a couple braces, the box I bought on ebay for ~145 I technically don't need it with the drycell battery but it defenitly cleans things up.



Most of my front end parts all came in so I started to bolt things up to see what im dealing with. This year im trying a different setup..s13 lower control arms,powered by max s13 knuckles,ksport s13 coilovers, gktech inner tie rod offset spacers,s13 outer tie rods,shortened s13 inner tie rods by 42mm, custom tension rods to accommodate for the s13 control arm.



I moved the spacers on the front heim joint so that theyre both on the outside instead of just centering it in the bracket to give me more wheel clearance at full lock.

Final angle measures around 57-58 degrees, with the previous setup I was getting 45. Im a little skeptical about the angle of the inner tie rod, I believe it should be perfectly parallel with the control arm but I don't know..anyone have any experience with drift setups?

New stance will definitely require some new flares, I was thinking about mimicking the trd n2 flares most commonly seen on the ae86's

Couldn't stand to look at the supercharger any longer not bolted up to the engine so I proceeded to bolt it up along with the necessary hacking up of my radiator support. Its defenitly going to be a tight fit, haven't decided if im going to try running brick headlights or keeping the pop-ups. If i keep the pop ups theres no way im running anything more than a screen for and intake filter..

I'm so stoked to see how this is going to turn out!! Going to be an animal!

Been doing a lot of metal work on the car, front fenders are done and the hood which I put some vents in is going to have to be raised in the center about an inch or so. I spent a good hour or so uploading photos and explaining my process but for some reason it never updated! So here we go again








A good friend hooked me up with this piece of aluminum he made during a test for school on the English wheel, seemed like it would work well to cover the power head of the supercharger so I welded some tabs/supports and mounted it up!


Hood vents I cut out of a rear deck lid from a Toyota mr2. The hood still needs work to clear the 1uz plenum.

This. Is. Awesome.

Hood is basically done, just needs a bit of paint I don't think it will pass the tack weld stage though! Raised it up 2 inches and it kinda turned into my own variation of a turbo hood/pulsar gtir look.

DAAAAAAAAAAAMN! Mad props on the metal work. Those fenders are gonna turn heads. You might consider doing some paint just to get more photos taken

Supercharger . . . so much win.  So many questions.

Custom mount or is it part of a kit for some other vehicle?  It looks a lot like some of Vortech's factory kits.

What sort of tensioner setup are you using?  Looks an idler on the mount and the OEM tensioner and a longer belt, or are you running a second dedicated belt with its own tensioning setup?

Why go with a V-1 instead of a V-3?  Is it simply what was easiest for you to source or due to mounting constraints?

Did you consider a counter-rotating unit bolted to the other side of the same mount with a different pulley?  If its not too late that could solve your intake problems provided it still fits by the fender.

I am guessing by the angle of the volute you are going to pipe it through an intercooler, what kind of boost are you planning to make?

Have you considered lower boost with no intercooler?  In my experience with V-1/V-3 blowers there is a break even point between 6-8 pounds where the flow restriction of the intercooler negates the cooling benefit.  Below 6lbs no intercooler is better and above 8lbs it starts becoming necessary.  YMMV but that is what I have found in my admittedly different applications.  Still something that may be worth considering if you have the time/energy/resources to test and tune.

MAF going before or after the supercharger? 

Where are you returning the oil?

MOAR pictures?!?!

The inlet is WEDGED in there.  You appear to be pretty good with sheet metal so don't forget wedge/pyramid/cone shaped air boxes instead of simple squares.  I can tell you from experience that Vortech superchargers (or any other for that matter) don't like hard 90Ã,° changes in direction or volume changes even on the intake side.  I once got a guy a 1.5lbs boost increase by replacing his strait 90Ã,° welded box/tube setup with smooth 90Ã,° turn silicone couplings on the  and replacing the ductwork in between with the same size pipe for the entire intake run only.

Love the work you are doing.  I hope you don't finish simply so the thread lives on!

Looks like a blast! I like where this is going!

Good work!

My lord that is one beautiful s12. wish i could work sheet metal like that. mad props man  :cry2:

Thanks for the comments guys and for following stage 2 of my build! Honestly couldnt do it without the support! I will be running up to the shop tonight quickly and will get more pics as requested. Im going to do my best to answer some questions...the supercharger and bracket were purchased from a gentleman named Brett Collins, he is out of florida and owns Collins adapter performance technologies. This setup was used on his promotional car which is an s13 with a 1uzfe swap. He put down 400whp @13psi with an aem standalone to manage fuel/timing, i will not be running my car with that high of boost YET because im very focused on suspension/cage and other things that will improve the car this year. I believe in tried and true setups and after hearing he was changing his car to a turbo i knew i had to have this! The adapter is custom made and i do agree mounting the power head behind the bracket would help a ton with space constraints, BUT heres my plan for now..5-6psi/front mount intercooler/and a 12:1 blox racing fmu (that my fuel pump is going yo hate me for), im going to experiment with a blow-through maf and a screen as intake filter..i know that sounds scary. The oil feed will come from the oil filter housing tapped with a 6an fitting to a b&m oil cooler, then to to charger, and finally back through a 10an fitting/bung in the oil pan. As for the belt setup its is just going to be longer and driven off the factory crank pulley, im using a larger pulley on the charger for lower boost which i havent figured out yet what size i will need.  I wil be content with 300whp as the car previously put down 178hp/200tq, but with my limited amount of fuel/timing control idk if it will do it?!

The adapter is custom made and i do agree mounting the power head behind the bracket would help a ton with space constraints, If you ever want to test the fitment you can just unbolt the blower and mount it on the other side of the mount.  The only external difference in the counter-rotating units is the curve of the volute so you would have to imagine it growing/pointing the opposite direction.  It would give you an idea of potential space gains.  If you wanted to change to a V3 for self contained oiling the pulley would have to be 15Ã,° from top center.  Not sure your existing mount would accommodate that, but it doesn't matter because your already set up for oiling.  If you decide to go that route you would just need a new pulley to realign it with the belt (sticking out through the mount to the front side again).

BUT heres my plan for now..5-6psi/front mount intercooler  How are you planning to drop the boost from 14lbs to 5-6 lbs?  If you have the ducting and time to rest it you may get better results with no intercooler at 5-6lbs.  The relatively small increase in air temperature may not be enough for the intercooler to work very efficiently.  The flow restriction introduced by the intercooler can cause enough disturbance that the benefit of the cooling is lost.  Just a matter of running it with the intercooler in place or a strait tube and measuring the temp and pressure in both configurations.  Would definitely go intercooler above 6lbs though.  Just remember smooth turns.  Hard 90Ã,° will make your blower underperform dramatically.

im going to experiment with a blow-through maf and a screen as intake filter.  I am not familiar with the 1uz nor your ecu setup so I am speaking only in general terms here.  Some ECU's don't have the ability to recognize/accommodate air temperatures created at boosted levels.  As a result they get the mixture wrong after assuming the air is cooler than it is.  Just a possibility to keep in mind when dealing with tuning headaches.  As for the blow-through MAF itself, other than the sensing issue I wouldn't worry to much about it.  After a few runs you might spray the outside of the MAF with some soapy water and rev it up.  If the MAF is having trouble containing the boost it will blow bubbles from wherever the seal has broken down.  Screen as an intake filter . . . you know the risks.  If you ingest something all you can do is shrug and rebuild.

The oil feed will come from the oil filter housing tapped with a 6an fitting to a b&m oil cooler, then to to charger, and finally back through a 10an fitting/bung in the oil pan.  Sounds perfect.  Just keep in mind that the oil spray nozzle in the V1 has a .032" orifice.  You may want to remove it and blow it out from time to time especially if you suspect debris in your oil.  Those bearings don't last long without oil.  Also, make sure your return line has a constant downhill run.  Even slight upturns can create a pool and bad shit happens when the oil doesn't drain properly.  They last longer than when starved but they aren't happy about it.

As for the belt setup its is just going to be longer and driven off the factory crank pulley, im using a larger pulley on the charger for lower boost which i havent figured out yet what size i will need. With a setup that is already tried and true it shouldn't be an issue.  Just measure it, buy 2 sizes bigger and smaller than you think you need, then return whatever doesn't work.

I wil be content with 300whp as the car previously put down 178hp/200tq, but with my limited amount of fuel/timing control idk if it will do it?!  Only one way to find out . . . test and tune and test and tune and test and tune!  Generally with lots of head scratching and beer drinking.  Gotta love hotrod'n!

DAMN!!!   supercharged v8 badass hood and fender mods...this car should be starring  in MadMax Fury Road...amazing skills,keep the updates coming.

Updates and pics! Was able to get some random shots of were things wil be placed so you guys can get an idea, also have been measuring for tubing I need to order so I can start fabricating my roll cage. Im lucky enough to have a good friend who rents the shop also to let me use his new JD model 3 mandrel tubing bender, I will be fabricating it as a 6 point with 1-3/4 DOM tubing which is required for tandem drifting and all that fun stuff.


Bung will be welded there with a 45 degree fitting..

Maf placement, there will be a short section of 3 inch tubing to connect the gap with a 1/2 barbed fitting for the intake air control tube (must go before maf). If there is any maf that would be good for blow through I can imagine it would be this one..it has metal flanges/its just built heavy duty and has an o-ring seal where the sensor goes through. Not to mention it has the secret ninja Toyota electronic engineering that last forever, from my experience as a Toyota technician seriously there stuff is awesome Denso ftw!
Fmu placement, I should've just bought the Vortec one with AN fittings already in it but I settled for this. I ordered all Push loc fittings for every part of the fuel system under the hood. The line I will be using is 3/8ths and is braided rubber hose rated for ethanol/e85 with a max of 500psi. All the oil lines will be push loc but regular rubber hose for 250psi. The more I look at my oiling for the charger the more I want to switch it around before it causes a problem. If your looking straight at the face of it..the inlet is at 11 oclock and the outlet is at 3 oclock, meaning most of the gears inside will be in a massive puddle of oil. Im positive it shouldn't be this way but there is no alternate space for the oil outlet. As much as I don't want to I may need to drill@tap a hole for the oil dump/outlet at 6 oclock so it can escape quickly.
Picked up this 260z for a friend yesterday (or whats left of it) and we now have 2 Datsuns in the shop!

If that MAF can't hold up to it none of them will.  It is beastly.  Still may be worth your time to spray it with a little soapy water to make sure it is all sealed up good.  As long as it and the ECU can make sense of the unusual temperature and density of the air charge you should be golden.

The oil inlet angle isn't an issue.  That little nozzle will spray the gears up, down or sideways.  The IMPORTANT note about the spray nozzle is that it points at the side where the two gears gnash together.  This way the oil is pulled between the gears as they spin.  The gears function as the spray mechanism for the rest of the internals.  In a V-3 (self lubricated) they added a splasher inside to replace the effect of the nozzle.  If you put the nozzle on the opposite side where the gears are opening away from each other the oil will spray off prematurely before getting to the other side and between the gears, which is bad.  Depending on the date your blower was made it may not even have the correct threading to move the nozzle in more than one place.

The oil drain is a huge issue at the 3 o'clock position.  ideally it needs to be somewhere between 5:30-6:30, but 5:00-7:00 should still be OK.  At 3:00 the case will fill half way and you will run into a number of issues.  On the mild side you will get some oil seepage from the shaft seal.  Not enough to drip but it will develop a film below the pulley.  The internal seal will also start to seep and you will end up with a film of oil inside the ductwork.  It develops very slowly but eventually it will coat the inside of everything including your intercooler and MAF if left unchecked.  The same happens if you use an oiled air filter which is not common on cars anymore.  Just stick with paper or screen filters and you will thank yourself.  The BIG problem you will have is that the pool of oil that you think your gears will be in . . . it isn't a pool.  The gears whip the oil into a bubbly froth/foam.  Sort of like the difference between cream and whipped cream.  This is bad for 2 reasons.

Most important, much of the oils ability to function as a lubricant is lost when in froth form.  It doesn't get inside the bearings or between the gears the way it should and after just a few hours of operation the gears and bearings will be completely trashed and discolored by the heat.  I have seen this happen to several V-1's.  The good news is Vortech only charges $750 to rebuild them.  The second major reason that frothy oil in your blower is bad is that it does not drain well.  At 60psi that spray nozzle flows right at .5 quarts of oil every 90 seconds.  It is a very slow trickle that the provided drain fitting can accommodate many times over.  In foam/froth form the oil doesn't drain as well and will actually fill up the entire supercharger top to bottom.  Since the spray nozzle is still sending in oil at pressure the inside of the supercharger becomes filled with pressurized oil-foam.  The pressure is not huge but it is being contained in the part of the supercharger that is not designed to contain pressure.  This pressure would theoretically compromise the o-ring seal for the gear housing and cause leakage but that is of little concern because the bearings and gears will be trashed first.  I may have some pictures around of the aftermath.

The good news is, all of those large allen screw plugs around the housing . . . they are all identical.  You can use any of them as your drain.  Hopefully your blower is situated so that one of them is near the bottom.  "Simply" take out your oil drain fitting and swap it with the allen plug that is in the position you want to use.  DONE!  I put "simply" in quotes because Vortech has apparently hired a gorilla of above average strength to put those fucking things in.  You will probably strip your fitting and the plug if you try to take them out.  Get a torch and heat the aluminum around them and they should break loose and come out fairly easy.  This is the only way I can get them to come loose.

That 260Z is baller!
I love the louvers.

Been wrenching on the car almost every night, I boxed in the s13 control arms im using and put a notch where the tie rod end contacts it for more final lock angle. I was able to max out a 62 degree spindle angle with some inner fender sludge hammer work haha, also had to drop the sway bar about 3/4 of an inch to compensate for the new r
oll center and the increased caster angle brought my control arms further forward. The PBM front knuckles are longer from top to bottom to push the control arms down which in turn made the back of my sway go up and hit the transmission, but with the spacers on it clears by about 1 inch. All of my fuel system parts came in a couple days ago, I realized the 6an braided nylon line I ordered is for AN fittings only and not push loc fittings so im just going to stick with the 350psi rated rubber hose for the fuel setup. Tonight im going to measure for the tubular bumpers which will be 1-1/4 dom tubing then I will go ahead and order all the steel for both bumpers and cage!

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Just had to put it back on the ground, I guess its just the satisfaction of seeing it back on its wheels that will give me the motivation to finish it..[URL=http://s279.photobucket.com/user/nissans4life/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1615_zps936f2c32.jpg.html]

You cock tease. Wheres the pic of that sexy suspension?

Will have some pictures of the front suspension next time I pull the wheels off Iggy..which will be when I test fit my new wantanabe knockoff xxr wheels! Ive been still putting in some hours in to get this beast done check out the progress, starting prepping for the cage and did a bit of rust repair on the drivers floor pan. Made a panel out of aluminum to mount twin b&m super coolers, one for power steering and one for the engine. The parts flow in the mail has been pretty steady I also received the disconnects ill be putting in the door bars to make it easier to get the seats in and out if I have to..

Have been super busy trying to get the car done, finally sourced some DOM tubing from a local race shop I only had to drive about an hour and a half to get. I ended up buying everything needed for the cage and bumpers..cage is 1-3/4 with a .120 wall and the lower part of the tubular bumpers are 1-1/4 with a .120 wall. Still learning some techniques on the manual JD squared model 3 bender we have at the shop, I found what works best is finding a program which allows you to build what you want on your computer and then it automatically calculates pipe offset and radius's..basically in the end all you have to do is mark the pipe where it tells you and bend on those spots (with two other people to help you pull the bar) definitely pushing the machine to its max with this size tubing. Aside from all that fabrication stuff ive been running back and forth a lot to local speed shops for push loc fittings and hoses that I still need and also have been getting atleast 2-3 parts a week in the mail including a Mishimoto intercooler they hooked me up with!, and some xxr 16x8's for the front because I needed some serious offset.. Steady Steady progress...pics now :)

So much great built to purpose fabrication work.  Can't wait for the next update.  Did you get your supercharger oiling issue resolved as well?

I could only dream of something like this. That is a great build! Can't wait to see the end work of this, will continue to follow this.

Sorry to be a pain in the ass but what size wheels are they on the back, the white steel ones? im assuming 15x10 0 offset or something? and howd they fit without flares on haha

iceageg on 06:13:45 AM / 12-Mar-15
So much great built to purpose fabrication work.  Can't wait for the next update.  Did you get your supercharger oiling issue resolved as well?

my12 on 07:22:58 AM / 12-Mar-15
I could only dream of something like this. That is a great build! Can't wait to see the end work of this, will continue to follow this.

WIGGLS on 08:02:26 AM / 12-Mar-15
Sorry to be a pain in the ass but what size wheels are they on the back, the white steel ones? im assuming 15x10 0 offset or something? and howd they fit without flares on haha

Spoolinups13 on 11:50:28 AM / 12-Mar-15
-I think at this point im going to take my chance with this setup, i know its not optimal and its not how it should be but im just going to hope luck is on my side for this year.

Well I hate to say that ive been too busy to update this page...but ive been wayyy too busy. At the least ive taken many pictures so check em out! The roll cage took me about a week working a couple hours on it at a time, im happy with the results needless to say. Ran into a little snag that set me back I had to build a hitch mount for my tubing bender since a main beam in the building was interfering with my bends on the main hoop! The exhaust is officially done as well, I ran it through the cab behind the driver seat so a shield and some exhaust wrap have been put to good use there, with 3 inch from the y pipe back and a dynomax 6 inch bullet race muffler its should get the point through that this thing has a 4 litre heater under the hood!






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Life is good when badass S12s are being built

...love that location for a side exhaust exit.

So as usual pretty steady progress, been tying up all the little things like my battery relocation wires,intercooler pipes,fuel lines, and some custom led directionals while waiting for the supercharger rebuild kit to come in. After I finished the starter circuit I put some oil in it and cranked it over for a compression test which turned out well. I had two cylinder a little low but withing 25 psi of the others with the highest being 240 psi! not bad for a 24 year old engine with 200k on it.











So everything has been going pretty smooth but I am a little bummed out about what happened today. Basically dis assembling the supercharger was to re drill the housing for a new location of the drain fitting since my unit is being used up side down. I didn't have much trouble takng it apart in a night, I had to utilize the press and vice to get the shafts free but after getting them out I drilled it and tapped it for an npt fitting...no problems,no gear contact to the fitting or anything. I ordered a rebuild kit figured I would freshen it up with new bearings and seals before re assembling the unit..great so I order the kit 250 dollars later and two days it arrives! Today I spent most of the day putting it all back together, I noticed the high speed shaft seal was different when taking it out of the package. After a little research I find out its a mechanical seal which just seals on the backside washer of the impeller wheel instead of the shaft itself. So I get the seal in the housing, heat everything up goes together like butter everything looks mint! After installing the impeller wheel I realize the unit while no longer turn..f@%!$$@^kkkk. TURNS OUTT the mechanical seal was pressing up against the back of the impeller wheel too hard which in turn cracked the 60 dollar seal. Long story short I tried removing the seal without dis-assembling the housing (since that would possibly require new bearings AGAIN)and I gouged the housing up pretty bad and put a crack behind where the seal bottoms out.. Its not the end of the world but definitely a set back, the housing is still usable I will be buying the right seal cleaning up the aluminum the best I can but its not pretty..



My attempt to use a sharpened chisel to loosen the seal


Anddd the damage, its ugly but luckily the part where its cracked and pushed back towards the bearing isn't hitting the bearing itself. A little rtv around the new seal, slap the charger on and fire it up hoping within a week!

Nice, very detailed

Sorry to hear about the complications man.  Those internals are not designed to be removed and replaced without some specialty equipment.  Just make sure you take your time and heat/cool/heat/cool the parts using something like a toaster oven and your freezer for full parts and a torch when you want just a localized area to expand.  Nice thing about the torch method is since the case is aluminum and the bearings are not the case will expand sooner.  So if you put the torch on the housing near a bearing it will often let go of its death grip on said bearing.  I am VERY interested to it all go back together and the result of the custom drain.  Are you going to utilize the secondary drain location also as we discussed before?

What size is the 1uz in terms of liters?

4.0 litre or 242 cubic inch..

Ok thanks!

I only just found this thread, better late then never. I'm interested in taking out my IRS and converting to the Ford axle, I just didn't have a good picture of the mount points of the 4 link suspension. I also are in the works of building a V8  swap hence the need for a stronger axle...

cheers and good luck, thanks for the build thread.  :idea: