rollings 88 yugo gv rwd ca18et thread....

Started by rollingstock · Jun 21, 2011 · 27postsSMF 2010–26

rollingstockJun 21, 2011, 8:26 pm · #1

let me start off and say iv had this car for a couple months with the idea of swaping in a toyota 4afe drive train(fzr1000 carbs, header blablabla). but after alot of thinking im just going to use everything from the s12 notch i just bought. the s12 needs alot of work and the gf doesnt like me having 5 cars. plus how would a turbo rwd yugo be!!..

and i will say this about the yugo. its diff not as bad as everyone says. i think it looks rather cool(like a old vw) and really its just a fiat. iv done alot of reading about the car and.. fiat design the car and yugo made it. but the motor/trans/pretty much everything important is fiat.

now to the cool stuff. so far the motor set up is going to be..... haha i dont really know. but, i will be running a ca20e intake manifold, ka tb, safc, small t3 turbo(z31 turbo) with hks wastegate. really tho just going to get everything mocked up and go from there.. here are some pics

the race
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these are pics from the 4afe swap i started

now some pointless pics from today after i moved the s12

seishukuJun 21, 2011, 8:35 pm · #2

That's a tight squeeze... That bay looks as small as my Brother's innocenti mini cooper!
Looks like a fun project though.

How much do one of those weigh?

rollingstockJun 21, 2011, 8:41 pm · #3

1800lbs from what iv found

WonderingravenJun 21, 2011, 9:33 pm · #4

for the size and weight, that would make one hella of a size project. I wonder what kind of suspension would bolt up?

rollingstockJun 21, 2011, 9:46 pm · #5

Wonderingraven on 09:33:29 PM / 21-Jun-11for the size and weight, that would make one hella of a size project. I wonder what kind of suspension would bolt up?

there isnt alot of info on the web for these cars.. i know some ppl road race them, but they seem to be keeping all the cool info off the web. there isnt even a real online fourm like this one. the only thing i can find is a yahoo group which i am a member but no one ever post. and the cars they have on there are stockers..

there are a couple site that sell parts, mostly motor parts since the stock motor is in a couple of fiats. but you can take the rear shocks from a fiat x 1/9 and use them in the front of the yugo(bolt on) there shorter so they will give move movement on a lowered car..

thats about the only thing helpfull i could find!

edit: i will be using the s12 rear end. so i duno if there is a way i can use s13/s14 coils overs?. so i can do away with the spring/shock set up?.. or would a s14 rearend be better?.. iv never messed around with a s13 or 14 so i have no idea

Wolf DilworthJun 21, 2011, 10:43 pm · #6

seen a Yugo a few years ago at a tire shop that was showroom fresh and even had a carefully done racing stripe running up the hood. Just about broke a rib laughing...

Best of luck.

seishukuJun 21, 2011, 10:47 pm · #7

If you're gonna transplant a different suspension into it, you might as well do a multilink... I don't think I would ever put an S12 IRS into another car unless it a was total bolt-in and didn't have a choice. :lol:

IggyEGuanaJun 21, 2011, 11:19 pm · #8

fuck the S12 stuff dude. I would do the toyota swap! that shit fits perfect and looks badass

WonderingravenJun 21, 2011, 11:37 pm · #9

4AGE in a yugo!

I wonder if the TE / AE86 coilovers would fit on this yugo.

sam31183Jun 22, 2011, 12:47 am · #10

I know someone who put coilovers on their fiat x19 and swapped out the hubs so they could have a bolt pattern that fit more than 5 sets of wheels...i dont remember what he pulled the coilovers off of though...

VG30_S12Jun 22, 2011, 5:21 am · #11

Just a thought...
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/crazy-mid-engine-hatchback-ideas/7972/page1/
Shogun style ftw? Might be easier.

If you pull ether off... Itll be an epic win :D

Someone else did a custom yugo widebody and did a step by step how to...

rollingstockJun 22, 2011, 6:58 am · #12

IggyEGuana on 11:19:07 PM / 21-Jun-11fuck the S12 stuff dude. I would do the toyota swap! that shit fits perfect and looks badass

it doesnt fit as nearly as nice as it looks from the pics.. it took a good amount of work and removing just about everything in the engine bay. plus i still need to bring the motor up another 2-3ins which to do to that ill have to cut pretty much the whole left frame rail for the trans to clear.. then i have to roll the motor back and its hitting the steering rack!. then hopfuly the axles will line up.. and the only thing i got with the motor was the motor and trans. when i talked to the guy about getting swap i told him i need everything, ie shift linkage, wiring harness, ecu, axles.. when they bought the motor and droped it off(i was at work) i didnt get anything. they just rip the motor out. so its been hard finding parts cheap. i cant see paying ebay prices now-a-days

oil pan sit crazy low
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left frame rail is in the way
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after hrs of beating
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the fiat x 1/9 coil overs will fit. i found a site that sells them. but if i remember there around $2500. im trying to keep this car cheap. for now. so im i wanna make best of what i have already

tommyJun 22, 2011, 9:21 am · #13

Not only did he not get you all that came with the engine, he didn't sale you the engine you wanted...

...this is no 4afe.... it's a 3sfe... out of the celica st 86-89 or a camry around the same years, it's the economy version of the venerable 3sg(t)e found in the mr2 turbo and toyota altezza... that's why it doesn't fit... it's a lot taller than the the 4afe and this is why it needs to be tilted backwards... that is also why it's written 2000 on the valve cover cuz...

the 3sfe is a 2L DOHC narrow 16 valves 22 degres between the valves
the 4afe is a 1.6L DOHC narrow 16 valves 22 degres between the valves

both have the economy head configuration with the timming belt driving the exhaust cam and both cams being driven with a gear in between so the intake cam turn the opposite direction of the exhaust cam

the 4afe share it's bore and stroke with the 4age 81x77 but the 3sfe share it's dimension with the 3sg(t)e, it's a square design 86x86 (think about the sr20 here)

you could directly bolt on a G head on this block and give you a nice n/a screamer, but the A block 4afe or 4age will fit a lot better, the C tranny that bolts to the A series engines is also a little smaller so it might fit a little better and the A block total length is shorter, so it should give you a little narrower engine/tranny setup which might be good for clearance between the frame... oh and the A block is not tilted to the rear, so it will not interfere with the steering rack...

i'd say sale this block and get yourself a nice fwd blue top 4age with a c52 tranny, it shouldn't cost more than 300$ and would work very well with those moto carbs

Jeremy AJun 22, 2011, 9:34 am · #14

Old/unknown/strange cars are the fucking greatest. Either swap would be sick, keep us posted bro. Are you planning to keep the ratty look?

rollingstockJun 22, 2011, 9:54 pm · #15

tommy on 09:21:15 AM / 22-Jun-11Not only did he not get you all that came with the engine, he didn't sale you the engine you wanted...

...this is no 4afe.... it's a 3sfe... out of the celica st 86-89 or a camry around the same years, it's the economy version of the venerable 3sg(t)e found in the mr2 turbo and toyota altezza... that's why it doesn't fit... it's a lot taller than the the 4afe and this is why it needs to be tilted backwards... that is also why it's written 2000 on the valve cover cuz...

the 3sfe is a 2L DOHC narrow 16 valves 22 degres between the valves
the 4afe is a 1.6L DOHC narrow 16 valves 22 degres between the valves

both have the economy head configuration with the timming belt driving the exhaust cam and both cams being driven with a gear in between so the intake cam turn the opposite direction of the exhaust cam

the 4afe share it's bore and stroke with the 4age 81x77 but the 3sfe share it's dimension with the 3sg(t)e, it's a square design 86x86 (think about the sr20 here)

you could directly bolt on a G head on this block and give you a nice n/a screamer, but the A block 4afe or 4age will fit a lot better, the C tranny that bolts to the A series engines is also a little smaller so it might fit a little better and the A block total length is shorter, so it should give you a little narrower engine/tranny setup which might be good for clearance between the frame... oh and the A block is not tilted to the rear, so it will not interfere with the steering rack...

i'd say sale this block and get yourself a nice fwd blue top 4age with a c52 tranny, it shouldn't cost more than 300$ and would work very well with those moto carbs

thanxs man!.. he didnt tell me what i was buying... when i bought the yugo(from a friends tow yard) and i told them i was looking for a motor, he said he had this celica that he was about to scrap. so i took a look at the motor, everything seems ok. they said they seen it running before the fuel pump went out.. i didnt get time to get the year/model of the car to look it up. i was just going on what i could find threw google.. i dont know shit about toyota's.. iv threw seaching alot threw google/forums trying to figure out what motor i had. so many motor came in the 80s celicas

i really hate sourcing parts, and with the nearest pick-n-pull being a 150mile round trip, i think im just going to sell this swap and go with the ca18. since i already have the hard parts and i need to do something with this car(s12) so i can trash or give the shell away once i get done raping it

im not looking at building a super crazy fast car. i just want some fun to drive and that will start when i wanna go for a drive.. ca18 will give me around 200-250hp which will be hell alot more than this car needs. and rwd will be fun!..

Post Merge: [time]02:59:41 AM / 23-Jun-11 [/time]

Jeremy A on 09:34:02 AM / 22-Jun-11Old/unknown/strange cars are the fucking greatest. Either swap would be sick, keep us posted bro. Are you planning to keep the ratty look?

naw. i still need to swap the hatch.. i got some pretty nice paint guns from snap on a couple weeks ago iv been waiting to try out. probly just rock it primer for awhile untill i figure out what color i wanna paint it.. kinda the last thing on my mind. LOL

Post Merge: 10:05:47 PM / 22-Jun-11

seishuku on 10:47:16 PM / 21-Jun-11If you're gonna transplant a different suspension into it, you might as well do a multilink... I don't think I would ever put an S12 IRS into another car unless it a was total bolt-in and didn't have a choice. :lol:

bought this up to a coworker(hes really good at fab work, he teaches me alot). anyways he said i should do a multilink. after talking with him on my break seems like it would be the best thing/easyest thing to do on this car..

now my question is. can i keep the s12 rear end and do/add multlink off that?. or do i need to get another rear end off another car?.

older pickup rear end?.. soild rear end the only way to do a multlink?.. im a newbe to rear ends!

tommyJun 24, 2011, 12:10 pm · #16

multilink is an independent rear suspension found on the s13 and above, you cannot mod the s12 suspension into this design. The 4/5 link suspension that you are thinking about with the solid rear is similar to that found in the 84 sra s12 and the old rwd celica and corolla, really not as high tech as the multilink but very sturdy and very easy to work with... if you are gonna mess with redoing the whole rear suspension, go with the multilink independent setup, it won't be any easier to go with an sra setup, and will perform better.

Converting a fwd car to rwd is really a pain in the ass, and if I were you, I would not go through it... but that's only my opinion...

almost 99% of the time when this is done, it's taken a car that is 4wd with a tranverse mounted engine and fliping the engine 90 degres, creating new motor mounts, new tranny mount, modding the front of the floor and part of the fire wall to accomodate a transmission, but the rear suspension is already build to turn the rear wheels, and their is already a place for the driveshaft etc... and it's still a very hard and costly process....

now what you want to achieve is even harder...

by looking at your picture, you would need to get rid of the steering rack, go with a remote mount brake master cylinder, create a whole new crossmember with a new steering rack and make it work with the stock steering collumn or swap out everything... they you'd have to cut half the firewall, and almost half the floor to accomodate for a transmission and driveshaft, while retaining the car's rigidity (it's a unibody construction, so you'd have to do all those things with the car in a jig so it doesn't distort) then you'd have to redo the whole floor, the fire wall, make a new tranny mount out of nothing, the whole rear suspension would have to be swapped with something that doesn't bolt on and most probably is very far away from, so you'd have to strengthen the mounting point for the new subframe for the rear suspension and keep everything align to the 1/32 of an inch... if you can pull this off, it would be simply awesome, but honestly I don't think anyone here is able to do this in a backyard... it's not impossible, but really unrealistic

it's say stick with your 3sfe or trade it with an other fwd engine and keep it fwd... it could be a very nice project that way and could become a very fun car.

if I were you, i'd find a nice 4age blacktop.... 20 valve 9000 rpm breathing through ITBS with a 6 speed tranny ;) make this work and then be proud and happy with the result... otherwise, I think it's a project heading to nowhere, just because of the amount of work involved

rollingstockJun 24, 2011, 8:54 pm · #17

tommy on 12:10:43 PM / 24-Jun-11multilink is an independent rear suspension found on the s13 and above, you cannot mod the s12 suspension into this design. The 4/5 link suspension that you are thinking about with the solid rear is similar to that found in the 84 sra s12 and the old rwd celica and corolla, really not as high tech as the multilink but very sturdy and very easy to work with... if you are gonna mess with redoing the whole rear suspension, go with the multilink independent setup, it won't be any easier to go with an sra setup, and will perform better.

Converting a fwd car to rwd is really a pain in the ass, and if I were you, I would not go through it... but that's only my opinion...

almost 99% of the time when this is done, it's taken a car that is 4wd with a tranverse mounted engine and fliping the engine 90 degres, creating new motor mounts, new tranny mount, modding the front of the floor and part of the fire wall to accomodate a transmission, but the rear suspension is already build to turn the rear wheels, and their is already a place for the driveshaft etc... and it's still a very hard and costly process....

now what you want to achieve is even harder...

by looking at your picture, you would need to get rid of the steering rack, go with a remote mount brake master cylinder, create a whole new crossmember with a new steering rack and make it work with the stock steering collumn or swap out everything... they you'd have to cut half the firewall, and almost half the floor to accomodate for a transmission and driveshaft, while retaining the car's rigidity (it's a unibody construction, so you'd have to do all those things with the car in a jig so it doesn't distort) then you'd have to redo the whole floor, the fire wall, make a new tranny mount out of nothing, the whole rear suspension would have to be swapped with something that doesn't bolt on and most probably is very far away from, so you'd have to strengthen the mounting point for the new subframe for the rear suspension and keep everything align to the 1/32 of an inch... if you can pull this off, it would be simply awesome, but honestly I don't think anyone here is able to do this in a backyard... it's not impossible, but really unrealistic

it's say stick with your 3sfe or trade it with an other fwd engine and keep it fwd... it could be a very nice project that way and could become a very fun car.

if I were you, i'd find a nice 4age blacktop.... 20 valve 9000 rpm breathing through ITBS with a 6 speed tranny ;) make this work and then be proud and happy with the result... otherwise, I think it's a project heading to nowhere, just because of the amount of work involved

im not really worryd about the work thats involved, im already planed on running a bembo brake master, i know pretty much what needs to be done to make this work. i just havent had time or want to post my ideas online. i rather just do it and update the build as i go along.

iv done quite a few ground up chopper builds and other frame fad work(note its a motorcycle but its alot less forgiving). a good friend of mine used to work at a hot rod shop that did alot of roll cages, tubbings, stuff like that. i have other friends that are really good at fabing just about anything from nothing.. so if i get to where im like "oh fuck" i can just make a couple calls

but really i know it seems like im just jumping in this with no idea of what is needed. but its not like that at all. iv been planing and figuring things out in my head for awhile.

tommyJun 24, 2011, 9:07 pm · #18

then... good luck sir!

rollingstockJun 27, 2011, 1:06 pm · #19

tommy on 09:07:59 PM / 24-Jun-11then... good luck sir!

we just put a offer in on a house so my rwd build is on hold or not going to happen haha. i really wanted to do this but having a home is more important than this car.. so im going to just ahead an finish the toyota swap.

tommy if you could post or pm me the parts needed to do the 4ag head swap or a good thread/forum on info to read up.. also i know on the 4af/4afe you can run a 4ag header, i can still run the same header on the head i have now or?...... also will i still beable to use my dist or do i have to make one? and lastly will my intake manifold work with the new head?..

back to the build.. i dicked around with it for an hr and got a little work done. cut the left frame rail and holy crap that made it fit like a glove. oil pan no longer sits on the ground, clear the steering rack. just need to find a shop to make the axles before i weld the mounts in.

here are some pics.

frame rail before
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cut

gone

really wish i would have bought a welding before i let my friend use my car!. and my s12 doesnt have tags soooo i have to wait till i get my car back. to make temp motor mounts(just to hold the motor up)

posted image

still sits low eought to clean the hood
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no more oil pan issue
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seem like that was a good height for the motor. axles just about line up. still need a ittle tweaking but i have alot more movement all the way around.

posted image

tommyJul 14, 2011, 3:52 pm · #20

nice update buddy, sorry for the late reply...

first of all the engine you are using is a 3Sfe so you will not be able to use anything from a 4Afe or ge, apart from spark plugs...

the 2 engine family S and A are completely different... cams, piston, crank, rods, flywheel, clutch, timing component, even the transmission don't swap over...

Lukily, toyota made (or Yamaha did :grinwink:) a performance head for the S serie engine that you are using... to create the 3SGE and 3SGTE. You can get those in yards out of 1986-89 celica GTS (the GT and ST model uses the same engine as you have with the economy head 3SFE). Or you could take the head out of a MR2 turbo SW20... both engine 3sge and 3sfe share the same bottom end, so you can bolt a G head on a F bottom no problem, you will need a G head timing belt since the belt drive both cams instead of just the exhaust, but I don't know about the intake and exhaust... they look pretty damn close, but they may not bolt... although the port seem spaced the same way, you may or may not need an adapter plate

The old version uses the TVIS system, and is written on the intake manifold, those version have a distributor on the back side of the head, the second version I am unsure of the ignition system, but afterward, it become waste spark and then coil on cylinder ignition... so an early head out of a 86-89 celica should be the easiest

The first generation distributor is very similar to the one on the 3sfe (might even be the same) so I don't think you'll have any problem making it work with your carb setup

Hope that helps you

ashleyanneJul 14, 2011, 6:01 pm · #21

First of all, that thing looks freaking sweet. I'd buy one for the right price.
Second, definitely do the Toyota swap.

rollingstockJul 14, 2011, 7:21 pm · #22

ashleyanne on 06:01:18 PM / 14-Jul-11
First of all, that thing looks freaking sweet. I'd buy one for the right price.
Second, definitely do the Toyota swap.

yup!. i love the way it looks aswell.. my gf even likes it, even tho she hates the s12(she likes the hatchs not the notchs). i wish i would have gotten another one!.. but they got crushed so no way of getting another one now..

but im going with the toyota swap. i havent really messed with it latey, trying to get the s12 upgraded

ashleyanneJul 14, 2011, 7:40 pm · #23

That is awesome ^_^

rollingstockNov 27, 2011, 7:29 pm · #24

finally got to mess with the yugo again. pulled the toyota motor out. i got a 2004 cbr1000rr motor swap from a co worker for another bike i have. but i de-sided to just keep that bike the way it is and use the motor in the yugo.. friend of mine came over today to help me pull apart one of my k5's but we ended up working on the yugo all day. got the motor in. for now(probly forever) just going to run a dog leg. at this point in life i dont have the money to buy a chain drive diff or even build one.

i had planed on bolting the motor stright to a diff then run the axles. but there no room for that. so this is the only way i can see me beable to get this thing moving.. its not going to be a race car like i wanted. just something cool to drive around town and to and from work.

the cbr motor has 3times the hp and 2 times the tq then the stock one. i will be using a power commander 5 with a autotune add on. so it will tune real time as i drive it. no need to dyno tune

the motor isnt hard mounted yet. i have more pics but photobucket was being slow
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sideways_s12Nov 27, 2011, 7:49 pm · #25

Please post a vid of start up I would love to hear this thing growl....

tommyNov 28, 2011, 8:57 am · #26

Drop a solid axle in the rear. Something like a go-kart or ATV (with swingarm a.k.a banshee), no diff, just a sproket welded in the middle of the axles turning both wheels) and run a chain all the way there... you'll have a sick street-legal go-kart ready for drifting!

Sweet thing

rollingstockNov 28, 2011, 1:29 pm · #27

tommy on 08:57:47 AM / 28-Nov-11
Drop a solid axle in the rear. Something like a go-kart or ATV (with swingarm a.k.a banshee), no diff, just a sproket welded in the middle of the axles turning both wheels) and run a chain all the way there... you'll have a sick street-legal go-kart ready for drifting!

Sweet thing

thought about it. but i wanna be-able to drive this thing in the summer time and not worry about how hot its going to be in the cab and the motor over heating due to no air flow. Plus if i was gonna go this route i would just run a baby grand race car set up without the drive shaft(they have a motorcycle motor in the front with a driveshaft to a rear end.) i thought about just doing a rwd drive setup like the baby grand cars but with all the weight building a cage and new tunnel for the driveshaft it wouldnt be worth it with all the weight.

go kart or 4 wheel rearend/bearings arent set up to push a car that weights over 1000lbs and cant handle running at high way speeds for verylong. id be replacing bearings 2 or 3 times just to make it to work!

the way im mounting the motor well be pretty easy if for some reason this motor blows up or stops running. i can just unbolt and pick it out(my hand if i wanted) and drop in the fzr1000 motor i have sitting here!