Project: Fairlady Silvia - 1987 200sx SEv6...

making progress,
https://youtu.be/heKTq-jJibU

That's a lot of popping

I need to tune it still...

hah!

Cleaned up alot of wiring that I had "temp" placed.
Some reason the Water thermoswitch has a short somewhere causing it to always run as one of my previous gremlins I have been troubleshooting on this chassis. For now I am going to just wire in the switch.
Fuel Pump before and After.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/fuel-pump.png)
Keep in mind this is the wiring for the external fuel pump so I had to cut the power...

(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2015-10-16%2019.20.30.jpg)
Driver side area wire mess, with relay switches are everywhere.

(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2015-10-16%2021.30.43.jpg)
This is it all cleaned up, and managed better. Only problem with the plug wires is there is no way to reroute them, they are just overly long and big.

I did notice that my fusible links as seen on facebook on another post somewhere about fusible links being toasted and used s13 fuses in it's place. Mine are toasted as if they are fried, frayed and so on.

(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2015-10-18%2013.19.31.jpg)

Starter got stuck turns out there was debris got stuck inside the main housing where the big gear meats the inside gear some how enough debris to also push the gears not to touch causing a weird clanking sound inside not sure exactly when I pulled it, the main shaft gear would turn freely as if it was broken. When I leaned out the debris inside and installed the gear back into place it has resistance as it should. Reinstalled, and checked a few places where I was having an oil leak and once again tighten the areas up. Waiting for this weird storm to pass seems to be ever lasting thunder / lightening over the house today and random downpours and my garage is abit too small to start up and test inside plus if my calculations are incorrect I might burp fire from the carb and I don't need my house burned down.

Nice! sounds like progress is being made!

Yeah, my goal is to make it natural as possible and clean. I just hope I don't need to pull the engine again just to figure out what I did wrong with the oil leak.

is it coming from the pan?

When I replaced mine the leak was coming from the plug on the passenger side of the pump.  Looks like the freeze plugs in the side of the block.  new pump fixed it but since yours is a new pump that would mean it is either defective or the leak is coming from somewhere else.  I would not think the pan is a likely culprit if the leak is massive.  The oil level in the pan goes down when running and should not be significantly pressurized.  Front seal, the pump itself, the pump gasket or the oil filter are more likely culprits if it is hemorrhaging at the front/bottom while running.

Try pulling the oil filter and making sure there is one rubber seal.  I have had the rubber seal from the old filter stick to the oil filter boss un-noticed.  When the new filter was tightened on the old seal broke loose and created a massive oil leak.  I have also had the filter housing simply come off of the threaded portion.  That would be easier to notice but if the crimp between the cap and body of the filter is faulty it could simply leak instead of/before coming apart entirely.  Just tossing out ideas.

Yeah,Checked a few things Front seal is new that came with the pump and seems to be solid when I put it on. The gasket was a bitch to get aligned when I got the new pump in place. The oil leak shows it is either coming from the groove where the pan gasket is at or the front main seal.  I checked the filter and it was golden, also what throws me off is the ps pump has a leak in the hose that I still need to replace but that is not where the oil leaks as it drips directly below the front main seal but also goes everywhere due to the spinning fun of the pully.

Jason did the Red car always missing the turn signal headlight stalk?

Spray some brake clean all around the area where it's leaking at and start it you might be able to pinpoint the leak a little better. As far as the headlight stalk yes it should be on the black car as the one on the black pretty much fell apart on me.

Lol. And yeah the brake clean will clean up the oil and then you can see when you start it exactly where it's leaking from as long as you don't let it run for long to the point where it starts spitting everywhere again. I found and fixed many an oil leak this way... No need for the dye unless of course you already have some but I wouldn't buy any...

Yeah, about that I decided to pull the motor and not waste any more time with it and change out the gaskets

Well ok then lol

I actually see a location of possible oil leak coming from the oil pump itself, the power steering bracket hides the possible cause if it is coming from the pump directly or from gasket.

Few also possible causes look like is from the oil pan gasket and possible.... cam shafts... can't tell yet when I lifted the engine oil came out from behind the cam gears.

Did you get it?

Actually I did, I was reading the fsm and turns out what I was not doing is what was causing my oil spraying ontop of the smaller gasket.  That is now complete I am now working on a few things I half stepped on.

Took most of the day drilling the 3 exhaust studs, 1 I had to make bigger from 11/16th to 3/8th of the size.  other 2 I was able to fix, one I had to drill and tap with a helicoil (I also helicoil the 3/8), and fixed the threads on the 3rd one. I am now missing 3 nuts to lock it down completely but now I am finally done.

I verified the gasket sealer was dry and covering what exactly the FSM said it needed to be covering and it was as I went threw the other night to verify, on the good side I am glade I pulled it this time around I am fixing other stuff I overlooked.

Nice Can't wait to see it on the road!

Engine is back in, I still have to tighten all the bolts once more, reconnect all the wires and decided to install a efan switch, and  the manual choke for the new carb before I move forward with the next test.

Good shit!

It is all back together and back on the ground, I have ran out of time to install the manual choke but will pick up a temperature gauge for now till I can find which wire to tap into for the reading on the gauge cluster.

Progress woot!

Yep, my starter solenoid just went derp, pulling it to get it tested at least.

To be honest,  this carb setup is actually scaring the shit out of me actually as I have no one local that could over look the project and point out anything possible that could be a bad idea or could go wrong or assist with finding wires and so on.

It is the unknown that scares me, when I start it up it makes me jumpy.

But yeah, I need to pull the starter and some how I ended up watching Samurai Champloo

Ok before I finally rule out the starter, I am going with the battery first.  As I gotta to remember that the dizzy takes a huge load from the battery power to crank and has to maintain 12v.

I think my battery is drained again, it is an old battery with known bad cell.

Making some huge progress I will unveil more as I am near completion.

New battery fix starter and call it good. I think the rest is ok. You're not an idiot so I think it'll be fine!

Well I am almost done, there is some other wiring that I had to do that I have been back and forth with the FSM on.

Things has been insane, but good thing I am a subgenius as I am already insane.

so far more wiring troubleshooting and fsm, not sure if this bad migraine is due from the high winds or because my head is always looking down like if I was staring at my phone all day...( I actually don't do that all day ) from looking down in the engine bay and fuse panel etc...

 so slowly moving along I am taking a step back with this there has been a bunch of fixes.

I do need to replace 3 out of 5 fuse-able links I found all broken up and exposed to the air.

Nice! Hey we need to talk about the red car...hit me up on FB or through text when you get a chance....

sideways_s12 on 05:36:23 PM / 11-Nov-15Nice! Hey we need to talk about the red car...hit me up on FB or through text when you get a chance....

I get tired just reading your posts of all the tasks you are doing. Man, you need to get a break and have some vehicles that cooperate for a while! Sure hope things will turn around and run your way for a while.

Wonderingraven on 06:47:20 PM / 12-Nov-15Yep, I assumed you still want to buy it back? I just was waiting to hear that you have your kids back and all is good before I was going to say something about it and in the mean time I was going to restore it back to glory since I have the correct FSM and wiring up an 85 harness should be easy now. I will hit you up when I get back home in a bit.

Everything is back together,Here is another reason why I went back to efi, I have fried another starter this is bad because they are extremely rare to find in vegas =(

shitty maybe a rebuild of is in order to save some money?

Going to try, but all the lines are good so far like it was before, everything is back to way it was before. Just seems cleaner now, I just can't wait for it to start up and I can actually drive her around the block this time.

Well, used the UV dye and found the source of my leakage, I can see it oozing out the back of the cam sprocket and only on that side, because it sprays it gives the illusion that the oil pain and other locations is leaking oil.

So as of now I have no time to replace / fix the sprocket and I also lost the tool needed to torque my intake stuff down not sure how I lost the T6 (I assume as T7 is too big) torq bit, harbor freight will be my stop friday as well. seems that the passenger side is clean just the driver side is filled with it. Good thing I kept the plate behind it or I would of started over torqing the head bolts, HAH! (not that I was going to remove it due to the thought of debris getting in and messing up the timing belt) seems I seen a few Z31's that has removed it though Kind of thought they where not smart in doing so.

I have a big vacuum leak but all 6 cyl are in operational, and clean from the exhaust so I did score big on the 6 injectors from the junk yard. Picked up 6 top feed N/A injectors from an 84 z31.

Wonderingraven on 12:45:40 AM / 18-Nov-15Well, used the UV dye and found the source of my leakage, I can see it oozing out the back of the cam sprocket and only on that side, because it sprays it gives the illusion that the oil pain and other locations is leaking oil.

Did that but the way it was spraying out it goes everywhere.

Oh damn then it must be spraying a lot...

Yeah, its everywhere just only less then 1 minute, my engine bay is covered with oil.

Shit, you got that all fixed now tho right?

Yep, the gasket blew and somehow got pushed in. but all is good now.
About to fire her up and do some dohhhhhnuts! and give zero fux

Hahahaha! YAAAAAAASSSSS!

It help if I had gas, I ran out of gas troubleshooting my overheating issue and enjoyment of it running.
Cold start it likes to stall, but when warmed up it idles loopy slightly.

Here is video #1
https://youtu.be/TEdYZKGoj5U

Video #2
https://youtu.be/Q5fgV20wuPw

Noticed the gauge for gas... lol
Weirdly I also had to advanced the timing to around +35 to get it to idle as shown in said video #2

I picked up some top feed turbo injectors from an 84 turbo at the junk yard, I might plan around with nistune soon with the 260cc injector flow.

You have nistune on the vg?

nope not yet but I am wondering if I should get it to eliminate the leaning out problem I am having with the current setup.

Currently thoughts, as recall this has a new head gaskets, new intake gaskets and all is good all torqued to specs.
I can touch the upper rad hose as if I was holding my hand under a hot water in the kitchen sink.

I can't seem to find a working water gauge to eliminate the gauge fault, so I am thinking as the symptom is described: Gets hot when I accelerate  about 3/4 of the way but goes back to normal op temp 1/2 way at idle.

New waterpump, can tell it is working vs not working as there is pressure build up, pressure test with no leaks at 16psi with the pressure tester tested both cap and radiator and it holds out the pressure.

So to eliminate the thermostat and radiator all together I am pulling the radiator from the black car.  mishimoto looks like a 4 core rad and removing replacing the thermostat all together for now to test to verify that the flow is rolling as it should.

Yeah I replace the thermostat. Is it a fail safe one? But before replacing the rad I'd remove the t-stat and see if the problem is still there...

It wasn't the thermostat, so I am proceeding with the radiator test.

That would be the only thing left right?

I would first bring it to a jiffy lube or terribles lube and do a rad flush as the applies heavy preesure to the rad system to push out any small blockages its about 100 dollars and saves you the trouble of pulling the motor again if it works....