Power To Manual Rack "how-to"

Ok, I don't have ALL the pics, but basic disassembly is removing the outer tie rod ends, the rack boots, and inner rod ends.
And I'm leaving it to the reader to figure out how to unscrew whatever that needs to be removed, I know inner rod ends and the gland nuts around the center tube can be a pain to remove. For the inner ends I used a large adjustable wrench and a modified wrench on the rack rod, and the gland nuts I used a combo of a large adjustable wrench and a pipe wrench.

After that, start by removing the lock nut cap.

Then remove the lock nut.

Remove the pinion preload spring cover (only remove the two bolts, DON'T TOUCH THE CENTER ONE).


And remove the shoe.

Remove the dust cap and snap ring on the pinion retainer.



The pinion should be able to be GENTLY tapped out (brass or bronze drift is your friend here). After you have the pinion out, remove the snap ring from the top and drive off the spool valve and bearing (#2 is spool valve), then replace the bearing and snap ring.


Now that's done, remove the non-pinion side gland nut and pop off the rack end, and you should be able to draw out the rack.

Remove the seals and inner tube from the rack (#1, #3, #4, #5).



Reassemble everything in the reverse that it was disassembled (EDIT: Don't forget to grease everything!), leaving the parts 1-5 out, and you should have everything back together like this:


Now, it's up to you to do what you want with the lines, you could remove it like I have and plug all the ports (welded or a plug of some kind), or leave them on, either way it won't hurt anything.

And it's not required, but I feel that it's not really a manual conversion with out it, weld the pinion torsion part together, it will solidly connect the steering column to the rack and won't have that "play" that power racks have (even though it isn't much, it still dampens things).

Cool I'm going to do the same so let me know how it goes thanks for the write up

Well, it'll be awhile before I can give any feedback on it, so you tell me!
I'm still saving money to fix the SR, that's why I'm doing whatever "free" stuff I can on the chassis.

Oh ok im on the same boat with my FJ lol guess we'll have to find out....looks pretty straight forward but how complicated is it???

It's real easy, there aren't that many parts inside the rack. The hardest part would be plugging the ports (if you decide to do that).

Doesn't a true manual rack typically have less turns lock-to-lock than a power steering rack? I would think that this would be horrible for drifting.

ArroDoesn't a true manual rack typically have less turns lock-to-lock than a power steering rack? I would think that this would be horrible for drifting.

Yeah, most manual racks are more turns lock-to-lock, to make up for the lack of assist.
But honestly, I think the less turns and being manual is a pretty decent compromise and isn't a big deal once you're used to the heavier wheel.

how hard is it to get to the top bolts on the rack? under the motor

Not too hard, the hard part is getting the motor up high enough to get the rack out.

wow this gland nut is hard as shit to remove

sweet

wtf is gland nut

LMAO! x2

i got it off with a pipe wrench. lol

Yeah, it's like the nut at the top of our strut assembly, a pain in the ass to remove, if it hasn't been done ever.

Gland Nut?  I still have two.  If mistreated I secrete.  Seriously, great article.  I'm having a new rack installed.  Wish I had a neighbor like you.

^lol

i did this mod quite a while ago. its good. the gland nut is actually the tightening collar for the end. its on the center tube against the end cap type piece and holds it on. after doing this it was hard to move the rack back and forth in the tube because this piece was too tight

idk how the tension changed. dont remember exactly how i did everything now.
I adjusted it using its tensioning screw. thats the center bolt seen in the middle of that cap plate on the left here

just adjusted it til i was happy with the feel to the wheel. just watch out cuz if its too loose the rack will move around in there. it kinda rattles when it hits full lock

I need to find someone in my area who does quality work. The "R&R" I can handle at a friend's house providing...  Stuff like this I'd prefer an independent like you guys.  I pay cash, prefer to assist and buy breakfast, lunch...  Looks like I gotta start my 1st thread, ever.  Oh the pressure, l better check my stool for blood.

Bloody stool pressure is reserved for women of the porn industry.
You'll be fine shark.

:thumbsup:

And Mort Goldman.  Weighs himself before and after.

This is tempting. I either have to relplace my rack or just convert it to manual... would the wife still be able to crank the wheel? I had a manual rack in my 92 Toyota pickup and it wasn't bad at all.

My wife complains about it, but gets used to it. Just tell her to man up! :P

Keep tires rolling during parking.  Parallel parking may be a little grueling for her, but watch out she could develop a grip that puckers.  Dad's '69 Z/28 w/o PS used to lift my ass out of the seat while parallel parking, but the road feel was well worth it!

*digging out the corpses*

so how does it drive with a converted Rack?

and why is this shit not in the howto section?

hi im new to this site. I have a 84 Datsun 200sx and im trying to do this power to manual rack conversion but I don't know how to take off the end to take out the shaft. how did you do it?