i want to produce these as well out of uhmw.. this would really stiffen up the steering feel since the stock rubber bushings are spongy as hell when going over bumps...price wise they'll run $30... again let me know the interest so i can whip these out now or later down the road
Browse › Tech ›Drivetrain
Bartco Tension Rod Bushings
again +1 for me
need these asap my bushings are fully blown yo get em crackin lol!!!!
These are a good idea, but the way the tension bracket on the S12 is designed, it doesn't work well with solid bushings IMO. It really needs poly bushings or a conversion to a heim joint.
Hey Bart, any chance of making the rear bush half as thick as the standard one, and compensating the front bush by making it the same thickness as 1.5 bushes? Everyone loves more positive castor, and will save people having to cut up new bushes
seishukuThese are a good idea, but the way the tension bracket on the S12 is designed, it doesn't work well with solid bushings IMO. It really needs poly bushings or a conversion to a heim joint.ya idealy heims are the best but this will work with uhmw as its got enough flex in it... im going to be making adjustable tension rods soon after we get the cnc dialed in
EightySix200SXneed these asap my bushings are fully blown yo get em crackin lol!!!!i need to get material on mon or tues so once i have that i can have them done fast... pm me and we can talk about getting them to you soon
Umai NaaHey Bart, any chance of making the rear bush half as thick as the standard one, and compensating the front bush by making it the same thickness as 1.5 bushes? Everyone loves more positive castor, and will save people having to cut up new bushesya i can do that... i can evem make them a bit smaller then that and then all you would have to do is add some washers to dial in your desired caster...
I like that idea even better!
ya i can offer them in stock and adjustable format or make them all a bit smaller and include a washer that would give you stock caster and then you can remover the washer and add a smaller one or take it out completely to setup your preferred caster
Found this on a 240sx forum and thought it was kinda cool
Chatter is when the car shudders as the clutch is being engaged. Possible cause may be as follows:
Flywheel has excessive run-out.
Flywheel was not resurfaced or improperly resurfaced before the new clutch was installed.
Damaged or excessively worn CV joints.
Bad U-Joints in drive shaft or U-Joints misaligned.
Excessive backlash in differential.
Excessive driveline angle.
Bad leaf springs, bushings or mounts.
The use of an aggressive clutch disc designed for racing.
Defective pressure plate and/or disc.
Disc has inadequate Marcel (Not enough cushion between the friction facing.).
Oil or grease contamination on clutch facings.
Worn or damaged clutch linkage.
Bent pressure plate assembly and/or disc.
Improperly tuned engine.
Worn or damaged engine mounts or transmission mounts
What could cause inadequate clutch release?
Inadequate clutch release can be caused by many problems. Possible causes may be as follows:
Clutch linkage not properly adjusted or reset.
Flywheel not resurfaced before new clutch installed.
Flywheel surfaced improperly (I.E. Incorrect flywheel step).
Flywheel machined too thin or not manufactured to stock (O.E.M.) specifications.
Lack of lubrication on linkage or release bearing collar.
Linkage worn or damaged.
Hydraulics defective, leaking or air in the system.
Cable stretched or damaged.
Pilot bushing binding due to improper bellhousing alignment, bellhousing damaged, or loose.
Clutch disc installed improperly.
Clutch disc hub rubbing against flywheel bolts.
Clutch disc binding on input shaft, damaged splines.
Input shaft bent causing clutch disc runout.
Pressure plate assembly and/or clutch disc bent or damaged.
Clutch disc is too thick or has excessive Marcel (Too much cushion between the friction facings).
Pressure plate has defective or damaged torque drive straps.
Damaged, worn, or improperly installed pilot bushing/bearing.
Oil or grease contamination on clutch facings.
Damaged or worn throwout bearing collar.
What could cause clutch slippage?
Improper clutch adjustment, lack of freeplay.
Quadrant not reset properly or is faulty (On ratchet cable type linkage systems).
Incorrect throwout bearing is being used (Too long).
Clutch assembly contaminated with grease/oil.
Clutch not fully properly seated in.
Flywheel not resurfaced or surfaced improperly.
Clutch assembly not designed for the application.
Clutch assembly not designed for specific type of use (Racing/Competition, Etc.).
Clutch not adequate for horsepower/torque of application.
Incorrect gear ratio to tire diameter.
Clutch assembly has lost facing material from one or both sides of the disc.
Clutch assembly has failed or is defective.
Flywheel surfaced improperly (I.E. Incorrect flywheel step).
Damaged or worn throwout bearing collar.
Damaged or bent pressure plate assembly and/or disc.
What could cause poor shifting quality?
Improper clutch release caused by faulty linkage and/or improper adjustment.
Improperly installed shifter.
Improperly adjusted shifter or shift linkage.
Damaged transmission parts (Bent shift fork, Etc.).
Worn transmission synchronizer rings.
Improper transmission lubricant (Check factory service manual for proper fluid type and viscosity).
Pilot bushing/bearing binding on input shaft.
Clutch disc hub rubbing flywheel or flywheel bolts.
Damaged disc hub (Dampers came out and interfering with pressure plate or flywheel).
Damaged or defective pressure plate torque straps.
Bellhousing misalignment.
ok, been reading like a mad man,.....
my buddy told me the KA comes with an Auto tranny.....
since my 85 S12 has a FS5W71B, will it hook up to the KA??
Apparently the 1986 S12 came with the C tranny,...but the 85 S12 had the B tranny.
so,... technically, they should match up. right?
86=mk1.5 some had b's,some had c's. check your litte plate thingy under the hood to make sure its a c tranny.
if so than itll fit if you swap ka bellhousings.
your talkin manual tranny's right?
Phisherman0986=mk1.5 some had b's,some had c's. check your litte plate thingy under the hood to make sure its a c tranny.
if so than itll fit if you swap ka bellhousings.
your talkin manual tranny's right?
yes Manual. my S12 has a Manual tranny,.........but the KA I'm swapping has an Auto tranny on it, which of course I don't want. So, I'm hoping my tranny will bolt up to the KA.
I'll take a look tomorrow and see which tranny I have.
the ca and ka use different bolt patterns where the trans meets the engine. you'll need the ka manual trans. you only really need the ka manual trans bellhousing if you have a c trans in your s12. then you would be able to assemble your trans together to work with the swap. you have a b trans which has issues when being swapped onto a ka bellhousing. you need to find a ka trans from a 240sx and use the whole thing, modify your mount slightly and grab a s13 front half driveshaft. that would be the easy route.
You're best off using a ka transmission. Don't forget to buy a clutch kit, flywheel, and install that pilot bushing.