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OK well the plan is my new 1986 200sx/ s12 will have a r200 rear diff,
being powered by god knows what(was going to me vh45de). s13 suspension, fender flares, coilovers, z32 brakes. better get started. ehh post the first pics of the first 2 work days in a bout 15 min
First day i brought the car home.
workday one of build.
workday two of build
rick shooting me with a laser for taking a picture of him
im pulling the sound deadening material out Monday then Sunday im installing the roll cage illpost pics of the progress then
LOL why is your ebrake backwards in the last pic?
And good luck with the build
lol because im cray hard core like that lol . its actually backwards to get it out of the way for when i was taring stuff out. also because im taking it completely out and making my own custom movement lever etc. o can u belive i got the car for 200 bucks lol
wow youve got alot done man thanks for the pictures please keep updated!
Ye keep us updated i am interested on how you are going to do the widebody on it
right on right on
y the custom oil pan? I dont remem S13 VH swappers needn oil pan changes. Imma have to go look on NICO again now lol
pretty fucking sweet so the z32 5 speed trans works with the vh motor?
sideways_s12pretty fucking sweet so the z32 5 speed trans works with the vh motor?needs a kit..but technically, yea
hope you kept the hardware organized! I went thru this myself, but not *quite* so extreme.
Do you already have the motor and the other parts sourced?
the 300sx transmission bolts to the bell housing of the vh auto after its been milled. so it will be manual. kinda worried about the oil pan tho, another member told me the vh motor in hi g forces make the oil shift and the sump sucks air so after alot of drifting i may have engine problems. so hopefully by making my own 2 lvl oil pan and extending the sump inlet hose i should be able to over come this problem lol atleast i hope so.
in my remote area i believe to have located a Donor q45 but i am wating to purchase untill my old motor is pulled and the roll cage has been installed. if my cds tubeing comes this weekend i will be posting pics of my roll cage in the car. wish me luck on the shipping lolz
o crap one more thing i posted a differential question in drive terrain but they say the stock diff id good to go anyone here have a opinion please let me now. should i do the z32 rear end and alot of custom work or should i keep my stock diff? again please post ur opinion
As for oil starvation on the vh, i'd suggested integrating
A) A larger sump
cool Oil baffles
Or go dry sump ....
-Dan
ya dry sump would be sick but cAN u buy a kit for that? im trying to save money and fabricate as much as possible. but making a dry sump system would be bat shit crazy in my opinion since i no little about them
The r200 is a 4pinion and is strong as hell. Just get an LSD for it and you'll be set. Are you planning on swapping the IRS out? If not, don't bother with a Z32 diff conversion. It's just more trouble than it's worth. The S12 suspension is fairly simple so keeping it that way just saves a lot of headaches.
im assuming that u mean independent rear suspension by IRS. and i was considering doing so? if i did swap it all out would it be beneficial to drifting ?
if your looking to make things easier why go through all the trouble of swaping a z32 rear end when the r200 from a turbo or v6 s12 is holding up to 9.33 ets with a crazy turbo FJ
What's beneficial to drifting would your choice to make. If you swap out to S13/S14/Z32 rear ends you get much more suspension components to deal with($$$$) but you also get to have a much higher range of adjustment. Think of it this way, some drifters jack the camber super negative, beyond the beneficial threshold, so they can slide better(less contact patch). With the IRS, if you lower it beyond normal, it'll be super negative anyway(think Asparagus) and you only have two arms to deal with. A new, more effective camber mod is being designed and prototyped so if you can wait til then, you can have camber adjustment without all that swapping and suspension fabbing work. Either way, both setups would be fine to use so it's up to you. I'm personally sticking to the S12 IRS and working from there on. I'm not into the drift scene so I don't know how beneficial that would be for you.
well i stripped out the sound material crap that is glued to the floor, total weight was just shy of 40 pounds....... really happy i got that shit out. tomorrow im pressure washing the entire car because of the grime and dirt biult up has gotten bad from sitting for almost 2 years. ( but no rust at all ) i am also purchasing my metal for the roll cage post some pics up tomarrow and alot more on sunday showing my sick as f*** roll cage when its done. one last thing what is the best place to look for a r200 rear diff
NissanNatewell i stripped out the sound material crap that is glued to the floor, total weight was just shy of 40 pounds....... really happy i got that shit out. tomorrow im pressure washing the entire car because of the grime and dirt biult up has gotten bad from sitting for almost 2 years. ( but no rust at all ) i am also purchasing my metal for the roll cage post some pics up tomarrow and alot more on sunday showing my sick as f*** roll cage when its done. one last thing what is the best place to look for a r200 rear diff
NissanNatewell i stripped out the sound material crap that is glued to the floor, total weight was just shy of 40 pounds....... really happy i got that shit out. tomorrow im pressure washing the entire car because of the grime and dirt biult up has gotten bad from sitting for almost 2 years. ( but no rust at all ) i am also purchasing my metal for the roll cage post some pics up tomarrow and alot more on sunday showing my sick as f*** roll cage when its done. one last thing what is the best place to look for a r200 rear diff
Woot steering wheel! this week im going to try and get both of my seats mounted up, interior painted, accessories, radiator and oil cooler attacked and finally my rear camber fixed!
(IMG:http://i486.photobucket.com/albums/rr228/nissancrazy/015-1.jpg)
(IMG:http://i486.photobucket.com/albums/rr228/nissancrazy/017-1.jpg)
running vq?
yea for real. video or ban.
Unfortunately waiting on z fever to get my harness back then yes there will be a video! And Iggy i may be asking you a few questions on your camber adjustment. this next week end will be really busy. i want everything to be ready for when the harness gets here.
for the last event i was all 5s for my alignment
camber -5
castor +5
toe +0.05
not at all optimal but ok. less camber is ok like -4. it depends. some run less like -3 degrees. some run more than me.
more castor than me is good. seen some setups as much as 7.5 degrees. castor affects camber. castor and camber together have a large affect on contact patch with the wheels turned. the offset of ur wheels does too. also keep in mind that in drifting the wheels are turned the wrong way to how the steering was originally designed.
toe is really up to the driver. or sometimes the car needs certain toe. more positive toe is more stable and reduces ackerman (actual ackerman not the ratio, only modding knuckles will do that) but makes steering respond slower. negative toe gives u quick turn in and response but is usually unstable and magnifies ackerman. also magnifies bump steer.
dig into it with google
This post has been edited by IggyEGuana: Jul 21 2010, 07:03 AM
Any more progress?
Ok well im out of funds right now and going absolutely stir crazy.
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AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.........
I want to get this driving SOOOOOO bad. I am close enough to taste it, but about 1200 dollars away from completion and totally broke. Although after a 3 year break from school im starting college for mechanical engineering on Sept 26! Unfortunately i most likely will not be able to complete her until June 2011 because of my financial stability during school.
Also the fact that i really have no friend in the immediate area that have a High car/mechanical knowledge leaves me always solo. A project of this magnitude is a lot to swallow when your by yourself 95% of the time.
Will post updates soon, probably 1-2 weeks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
NissanNate @ Aug 19 2010, 12:40 AM
I want to get this driving SOOOOOO bad. I am close enough to taste it, but about 1200 dollars away from completion and totally broke.
NissanNate @ Aug 19 2010, 01:40 AM
Also the fact that i really have no friend in the immediate area that have a High car/mechanical knowledge leaves me always solo.
Jay @ Aug 18 2010, 11:45 PM
What on earth is 1200 dollars from completion?!
Get "Completion" outta the picture and make it "Driving"!
It doesn't matter, when turbo's "go", they don't throw parts into the intake tract. The most that can happen to the compressor wheel is it will break free of the center shaft and just sit still in the compressor housing. Usually it's the hot side that sees the damage, and it's just gonna throw bits out the back. But most of the time, a turbo just seizes, and you basically have a horrible bottleneck, and your car is suddenly weak sauce.
This turbo is boosting about 2-3 psi, and I can smell the exhaust quite a bit... prolly has an exhaust gasket leak at the head, and it's just acting like a wastegate. Fix the gasket and get the boost up again.
rotary exhaust always smells like gas....Tongue.
thats cause they tend to run super rich all the time, i followed a friend in an overly rich NA and i swear my car idled up while following it...
nice car , i was never able to get my hands on a TII, but ive had my fair share of GXLs. god i miss my 7's.
I'm really surprised that it sat for that long and fired right up... usually when setting that long carbon builds and locks the motor.
which also reminds me, might be a good idea to check the condition of that OMP and premix if you havent already, wouldn't hurt on the 8 ether Wink
Lets See Some Videos Cheesy
Everything is going to get a full on inspection and treatment if needed. Just at this point in time it was important to get the car at a point that it could move under its own power.
I did a bit to before even attempting to turn it over, I made sure the fuel system was pretty much all the vital systems were gtg before starting her up. I also poored a few ounces of motor oil into each chamber per rotor face and slowly cranked the motor by hand to lube up all the seals. Made for an interesting smoke cloud but fired right up.
Other news.
Went with Sterling to the Ecology Auto parts junkyard in SD over the weekend and managed to score a "clean" and almost entire front dash assembly to replace the dash I have which is cracked all to hell. Only one small panel was missing and that shouldn't be too difficult to find. Also pulled some more interior parts , most likely will do a full black interior conversion at some point
Also pulled this bad boy from the domestic yard
Its an E-Fan from a 95 Mercury Villager aka Nissan Quest, the fan shroud dimensionally fits perfectly around my Koyo radiator. From what I read online and the fun Sterling, Alex and I had last night, this sucka pulls some hard air. So once some other issues are resolved, the mechanical clutch fan is coming out, and this bitch is going inside. Just one component closer to my V-Mount plans!
figured I post some more progress. I decided to try and fit the E-Fan in preparations for the conversion. Took some cutting but I managed to squeeze the sucker in there. As mentioned on the Rx-7 Forum, the Fan fits perfectly dimensionally around the radiator core. I did have to cut the corner to clear the top tank inlet, with the amount of air this fan pull, the missing shroud corner shouldn't compromise airflow. 
So I also found a slick setup somebody wrote on rx7club.com on how to wire up the e-fan and still have 2-speed functionality.
here is the diagram of the setup:
As you can see, its a pretty legit setup. All I need to acquire to make this happen are:
- Standard 12v Relay, which I already have that came with the fan
- Volvo 2 stage fan relay (92'+ 740, 92'+ 940/960, All 850)
- Audi/VW Coolant fan switch (A4, Jetta, and a few others) has two switch points.
- 30A Fuse
- Greddy 38mm water temp radiator hose adapter
- M22 x 1.50 tap
- Harness connectors for relay and switch (junkyard run anyone?)
Pretty straight forward setup. standard relay is activated by a switched 12v source, that will then turn send 12v power from the battery to the Volvo relay. Volvo relay is controlled by the Audi/VW switch. the first stage of the Audi/VW switch kicks in at 190F, that will activate the relay to complete the low speed circuit for the fan. The second stage will kick in at 209F, which will cause the Volvo relay to switch over to the high-speed Circuit for the fan.
The greddy hose adapter will get spliced into the top radiator hose which will house the Audi/VW thermo switch. Only big obstacle is that it needs to be bored and tapped to accept the 22mm x 1.50 threading of the thermo switch. That'll be fun!
According to other users who have this setup with either the Villager or Taurus fan, High-Speed pretty much never kicks in, but its nice to know that its there just in case.
Not exactly sure when I'll complete this, since funds are very tight for me at the moment and I really don't want to spend anymore money than I have to until work starts up for me again. So the mechanical clutch fan will probably be put back in so that the car can be moved, either than or just have it setup so the fan runs when switched 12v power is run through a relay.
Other news, I had some Hawk HPS brakes and Power Slot front rotors lying around in storage so I figured I'd install them since I had time. Also have some Goodridge G-Stop SS brake lines that will go in when I bleed the brakes! Probably do that sometime this weekend.
That's it for now.
ooh looks fancy greg
hellz yeah, its teh sex!! whats cool about this setup, it can be used on any car.
Sweet stuff man. Glad to hear her moving. Wanted to get me one.... people in FL want too damn much though...
Grant on 01:18:25 AM / 10-Oct-10Wanted to get me one.... people in FL want too damn much though...
13b powered fbs are more fun anyways....one day though 13bs will become rare....there are only so many rotary engines out there....and they arent easy to keep alive.
sam31183 on 04:05:46 PM / 10-Oct-10and they arent easy to keep alive.
yeah I learned that the hard way with my Rx-8. I babied the 8 because its my daily and after 50K the engine started mis-firing like a mother and actually died on me while I was at an intersection. Come to find out I had carbon build up on the internal seals and it was cheaper to just replace the motor, under warranty of course :-P Didn't think the renesis suffered the same issues as older rotaries but I guess I was wrong.
Are you sure about the throttle body mod? I've done countless hours researching if there were any ill side effects to removing the plates, and I have yet to hear anyone who has performed the mod complain about a torque loss. Hesitation, yes if you hammer on the throttle under 3800 rpms. Those secondary plates for the most part, their role was to steadily increase air flow as it enters and exits the throttle body, smooting out throttle response.
If anything this mod will improve throttle response, allow for boost to build up much quicker over stock and held better throughout the rpm band. There is a possibility of boost spike, however I am already taking precautionary measures to combat that. I have a factory turbo where I am going to bore the crap out of the internal wastegate. That is until I upgrade to an external WG setup and do away with the awfully restricted setup that plagues S4s.
Anyrate, I did manage to snag all the components needed, sans the rad hose adapter and some wire, to complete the 2-speed fan setup. Just have to test everything to make sure it all works. Also snagged a spotless dash at the Anaheim Pick Your Part. Came out of a S5 Vert, and pretty much pristine. The dash is out of a car that had an airbag so the paneling under the steering column is different and I need to source that part.
A few more nick nacks and snagged one of these bad boys!
A electric air pump from a LT1 powered Camero Z28. The plan is to ditch the mechanical air pump and ACV and replace it with this electric pump. Come to find out, from what I gather to people who've done this conversion on FDs and FCs, emmissions sniff cleaner than stock. Even on systems running Hi-Flow cats. The trick will be triggering the pump to only work under 2800 rpms. I have a few ideas how to achieve this, but more research is needed to see if it works. Of course S4 Alts aren't really up to the challenge of running a e-fan, e-pump as well as other accessories, so the main reason for the air pump conversion was so that I can a FD alt that cranks out 100 amps as opposed to the mere 55 amps that the s4 alt puts out. I already have the FD alt and pulleys (serpentine as opposed to v-groove) to do the conversion. The serpentine belt will help reduce any slipping that may happen on the alt or water pump pulley.
well that's all for me tonight, time to headbutt a pillow.
More status updates, one of the only benefits of being unemployed... you get shit done on your project car.. that is if it doesn't cost any monies!
Pulled the old shitty dash and replaced it with the one that I got at the Anaheim Pick a part, nice not having see a huge ass crack erupting from the cluster shroud.
Today I swapped out the old brake soft lines with goodridge SS lines. Bleeding will commence tomorrow along with pics showing the new bling.
Also figured out how I am going to wire up the Air Pump. After some further reading some of the FD guys that move over to a Haltec or other EMS take the stock fuel pump relay and resistor and use it to run the Air Pump. The resistor will bring down the voltage to a level that won't burn out the pump after 15 minutes of operation. GM and their infinite wisdom used a air pump that operates on +9v DC instead of your typical +12v DC. Genius GM.. Genius
As you can see I found that I can use the split are solenoid signal to trigger the relay. This is the signal that actuates the ACV on the stock setup so it should be perfect. Pump will only operate under 2800 rpms. Voila! a comparable replacement for the stock setup that allows me to place the pump where I want and allow for aftermarket turbo setups while still being emissions savvy.
So now I just need to source a relay/resistor assembly from another FC or another car that runs a resistor for the fuel pump. Guess I am headed to the salvage yard again.
That's it for now.
