JZ S12 BUILD, RIP 2012

If you get a full 2 car garage to yourself, it would make me the most jealous person in the world. My 200 and saab are currently being shitted on by many birds, and trees.

PULL THAT MOTOR!!

-Dan

RB25sx - SLPRIf you get a full 2 car garage to yourself, it would make me the most jealous person in the world. My 200 and saab are currently being shitted on by many birds, and trees.

PULL THAT MOTOR!!

-Dan

you need new muffler bearings once the motor swap is done man jus remember.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3 (http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3)

jeffwins24you need new muffler bearings once the motor swap is done man jus remember.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3 (http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3)

well,
i should have an engine lift by 730 tonight

my friend was gonna bring it last night.... but lately it rains EVERYDAY
and he was held back at work

the engine can rock back and forth on the mounts, all LOOSE and is ITCHING to come out, OMG WTF lol. no tranny, no nothing on it lmao

this is exciting

well

well

well

that guy was an asshole
but guess what

my dad (who does not live with me)
turns out he has has one?!?!?

why?
i dont know.
but i should be getting it tomorrow
and i try to count on my family....

here is my crapp garage.
caint wait to get the bigger one  
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1251.jpg)

so tomorrow,
engine should be coming out!!

alright
i did it by myself

kinda confusing.... but
its a start.

come on anyone?!?!?!

Dude, its one in the morning.  Not many people are on right now  

OK, you know the wires you took off the engine? Not the spark plug wires, the ones that went to the sensors?  Follow that bundle of wires.  Its going to go to the firewall, down by the driver's side strut tower, to underneath the airbox (by the coils and stuff).  Start removing the wiring.

There is going to be two or three connectors (THE ONES THAT WILL GET USED WHEN YOU SWAP IN THE NEW MOTOR) that connect the engine harness to the chassis harness.  Unplug those.

NOW the wiring loom goes into the fender, and up and over the wheel well plastic, and into the passenger compartment, where it connects to the ECU.  Unplug the computer, and remove the rest of the harness.

NOTE you don't have to take off the fender, you can remove the fender liner (the plastic thing) inside the wheel well, and snake it out thru there.

This is the EFI harness, or engine harness, whatever you want to call it.  You DO NOT need it if you are going to go with a different engine (a KA, for example).

200sxkitcarDude, its one in the morning.  Not many people are on right now  

OK, you know the wires you took off the engine? Not the spark plug wires, the ones that went to the sensors?  Follow that bundle of wires.  Its going to go to the firewall, down by the driver's side strut tower, to underneath the airbox (by the coils and stuff).  Start removing the wiring.

There is going to be two or three connectors (THE ONES THAT WILL GET USED WHEN YOU SWAP IN THE NEW MOTOR) that connect the engine harness to the chassis harness.  Unplug those.

NOW the wiring loom goes into the fender, and up and over the wheel well plastic, and into the passenger compartment, where it connects to the ECU.  Unplug the computer, and remove the rest of the harness.

NOTE you don't have to take off the fender, you can remove the fender liner (the plastic thing) inside the wheel well, and snake it out thru there.

This is the EFI harness, or engine harness, whatever you want to call it.  You DO NOT need it if you are going to go with a different engine (a KA, for example).

alright,
gotta remove more wires and stuff.

so sterling.
the part of the harness that i leave...
thats the one that plugs near the injectors right?

goes ove the top and off to the side...

here are some more pics of the cleaning/removal process
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1264.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1265.jpg)

ill clean more later, and some day,

there is some rust,
so im thinking of sanding and painting also
whats a good paint for the engine bay? that will last?

I would use high-heat stuff for the engine bay. It might not be necessary though

EternalSwapI would use high-heat stuff for the engine bay. It might not be necessary though

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/enginebay.jpg)

alright,
do i remove the green?
i have started to remove that,
im guessing it goes around the fender through the car to the ECU right?
is that whatt you ment?

what about the pink?
those pink wires went across the engine, by the injectors and stuff

DO NOT REMOVE THE GREEN. That is the chassis side of the ecu power/relay harness. The pink looks like the engine harness. Are those injector clips on it? If so take that out. Do not cut anything and don't break the clips that plug into the chassis side.

EDIT: The engine harness goes along the driver side, not passenger like the S13/S14s.

mod_mastazDO NOT REMOVE THE GREEN. That is the chassis side of the ecu power/relay harness. The pink looks like the engine harness. Are those injector clips on it? If so take that out. Do not cut anything and don't break the clips that plug into the chassis side.

EDIT: The engine harness goes along the driver side, not passenger like the S13/S14s.

Dude, you've got to read what I wrote, all that info was there for the harness.  The red shit that *connected to the engine* is whats going, because you aren't going to put that *engine* back in.  Don't cut anything, just unclip it all and pull it out.  Go back over that post and follow those directions to get the rest of it out.

For cleaning your engine bay, I HIGHLY recommend this product http://www.gunk.com/CAT_FEB1.asp (http://www.gunk.com/CAT_FEB1.asp)  follow the directions on the can, have some sort of scrub brush, and your engine bay will turn out like this:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/arrospeed/S12_Tech/cleaned_bay_01.jpg)

with a little bit of paint.  ANY paint really will do, high temp isn't particularly necessary,

I super like Rustoleum brand, and Krylon is good too.  Pretty much any of their selection will do you well, as long as it isn't the cheaper shit.

Dupli-color is fine as well, you know the stuff at Autozone or wherever that is for matching up a car's color 100% factory.  Those paints are good too.

Looking good so far!

hey i use foamy engine bright on my dirt bike when i had it,
its at AUTOZONE i think

but honestly,
i wanna skip the paint.
maybe a touch up,
but w/e im not trying to look really pretty,
just mostly GUNK free.

yea dude ima get some of that soon

what part of the mounts do i use for the KA24DE?

like what do i save?
i saved almost all my bolts off evrything too
i labled them

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/cleaned_bay_01.jpg)

the green,
that old thing.

if i dont want AC and extra crap (i just want power steering)
can i plug it?
and rip it out?
or not

what do i do?

Yeah, gunk free will make it look loads better at least.  Tho, fix any rust caused by the paint coming off (look by the brake master cylinder if its leaked, they almost always do).  Touch up is really all I meant, if you take a look closely at that pic, thats actually all I really did, it came that clean.  The only paint is under the BMC and the trans tunnel (its more shiny, checks it out)

The KA stuff:  you are going to use the metal bracket thats attached to the KA engine, and the rubber mounts (the actual motor mounts) that were used with the KA engine.

You can remove the stuff that goes thu those holes in the firewall, thats the AC stuff.  Note how on that car, it has those plugs, because that S12 was never equipped with A/C.  On my car, I just cut the lines, and the owner after me filled them with black silicone to seal up the holes.

Very good move bagging and marking the bolts.  This is the best thing you can do, really.  Organization will make the difference whether your project will get done or not  

200sxkitcarYeah, gunk free will make it look loads better at least.  Tho, fix any rust caused by the paint coming off (look by the brake master cylinder if its leaked, they almost always do).  Touch up is really all I meant, if you take a look closely at that pic, thats actually all I really did, it came that clean.  The only paint is under the BMC and the trans tunnel (its more shiny, checks it out)

The KA stuff:  you are going to use the metal bracket thats attached to the KA engine, and the rubber mounts (the actual motor mounts) that were used with the KA engine.

You can remove the stuff that goes thu those holes in the firewall, thats the AC stuff.  Note how on that car, it has those plugs, because that S12 was never equipped with A/C.  On my car, I just cut the lines, and the owner after me filled them with black silicone to seal up the holes.

Very good move bagging and marking the bolts.  This is the best thing you can do, really.  Organization will make the difference whether your project will get done or not

got some engine bright,

i bought like 3 cans,
because i still have shit too take out of the bay,
before i fully clean it.

so
here is stage 2 of cleaning,
probally about 75 percent GUNK free.
more to come soon
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1276.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1273.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1275.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1277.jpg)

Meh

EDIT*
oh
to add to my stupidity, lol
i dont know what these two things are,

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1269.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1268.jpg)

should i remove them
will i need them?

the first looks like a condenser of some sort I would say a/c but your car didn't have it the second it defiantly the charcoal canister it is emission device I didn't have it on my old turbo and it ran....not well (start up and 3k rpm) it did that 3k thing for other reasons never found out what though but it ran if you delete it cap off the lines heck if you remove it remove all the emissions stuff

o and nice build I like the color of the car always a fan of blue

J-manthe first looks like a condenser of some sort I would say a/c but your car didn't have it the second it defiantly the charcoal canister it is emission device I didn't have it on my old turbo and it ran....not well (start up and 3k rpm) it did that 3k thing for other reasons never found out what though but it ran if you delete it cap off the lines heck if you remove it remove all the emissions stuff

o and nice build I like the color of the car always a fan of blue

lol everyone is soooo responsive

David Blol everyone is soooo responsive

Thats an engaging conversation.

I went to respond to your thread yesterday, and it killed my computer.

You can re-use that black, round canister (pic #2) with the KA.  The KA probably won't have the canister with it, but just hook up the KA's hoses to that one (they are long enough, the correct size too).

The A/C stuff, the condensor (finned radiator looking thing) and the receiver/dryer (round canister), can definitely be removed, seeing as you have no ac.

ENGINE BAY IS LOOKING VERY SHARP   Good job there!

You can take the rubber engine mounts off your car then, yes.  You will need to use KA ones, whether they come with your engine (but may be broken) or get new ones, will depend on what you get with the engine.

However you want to cap the old A/C lines where they go into the firewall is up to you.  What you can do, is disconnect them by loosening the nuts, remove the lines, and then take balloons and use that to seal up the tubes.  I did this, and it was cool.  lol.

For your water leak, what you need to do is this.  Dry everything off real good.  Then, take a hose, with a spray nozzle, and GENTLY wet an area.  Look for leaks.  Repeat.  Try and find out where the water is coming from by looking to see where it drips/runs down/collects.  You may have to pull the carpet/other plastic shit out of the way to do this.  Sometimes it is helpful with more than one person.

Love the new sig line graphics man! I lol'd @ them

You can re-use that black, round canister (pic #2) with the KA.  The KA probably won't have the canister with it, but just hook up the KA's hoses to that one (they are long enough, the correct size too).

The A/C stuff, the condensor (finned radiator looking thing) and the receiver/dryer (round canister), can definitely be removed, seeing as you have no ac.

You can take the rubber engine mounts off your car then, yes.  You will need to use KA ones, whether they come with your engine (but may be broken) or get new ones, will depend on what you get with the engine.

However you want to cap the old A/C lines where they go into the firewall is up to you.  What you can do, is disconnect them by loosening the nuts, remove the lines, and then take balloons and use that to seal up the tubes.  I did this, and it was cool.  lol.

For your water leak, what you need to do is this.  Dry everything off real good.  Then, take a hose, with a spray nozzle, and GENTLY wet an area.  Look for leaks.  Repeat.  Try and find out where the water is coming from by looking to see where it drips/runs down/collects.  You may have to pull the carpet/other plastic shit out of the way to do this.  Sometimes it is helpful with more than one person.

Love the new sig line graphics man! I lol'd @ them

EDIT***

oh yea and sterling,
the stand under the battery.
how did you get that off?

LOL I took a really big pair of pliers to it, and just tore the shit out of it- into little bits.  The intelligent way, easier, would be to get a drill and drill out the spot welds that hold it in.  But, yeah.

Are you going to be putting the battery somewhere else?

Isn't it amazing how much shit is in the engine bay when you go to clean it?

You could toss the mounts, keep them, throw them at someone, doesn't really matter I suppose.

The A/C lines go to something called the Evaporator, its like a Heater Core (if you've ever seen one of those).
Basically, the heater core has hot water (the engine coolant), and it heats up the air, and the evaporator has the refrigerant, that cools down the air.  Its small, and aluminum, so it can't weigh that much.  Its ok to leave, really.

You really have to take some shit apart to get it out.

Your leak, you might have to do just that.  But, look around, check it like I wrote (might not be a bad idea to take a pic of the leak/water coming in/where it streams from,etc) and maybe you won't have to tear out the dash.

Graphics man, pretty impressive.  Obviously you don't suck at it, so go for it!

im tossing the battery to the rear, plus, i dont even have rear interior anyways.

i like how arro's car has the coolant bottle under where the battery was, i would like to do the same,
(http://i25.tinypic.com/dmbcys.jpg)
and that battery stand is in the way

im looking for that headlight switch, that little black box, i broke mine. if anyone has it let me know!!

i dont have a drill YET, so im prob gonna hammer and ply away,
my genric blue touch up paint i find will get those scracthes hidden

ill leave the evaporator,
but thanks for the info, i always wondered about that,
ill get pics of the leak,

instead of putting water into my car,
ill draw it out where its coming from for now

my outlook is MINIMAL shit under the hood,
except for power steering of course,
and a few electric fans around

i might just use GREAT STUFF, to plug the holes,
plus i have many more holes to plug someday,
ill just wear gloves this time around

is it bad to clean the car with the wire harness unplugged like that?
will it damage the eletrical system?

The windshield washer bottle down there was my work, when you're ready, and if I haven't done a how-to yet, I'll send you a load of pics.

I'll keep an eye out for that black box for ya

I'm a huge fan of minimum shit under the hood too, think it looks so much better.

Arro's car was just a warm up for what I want to do with mine.

I'm not sure how well great stuff will work for those holes, that tends to get everywhere fast.

As long as you dry everything off good, it should be fine.  I would try and avoid soaking the wiring (although thats a bit difficult when you're cleaning like that) but if you've got a small air compressor you can always blow the water out of the connectors too.  Or use your mouth, if nothing else.

A drawing of your leak would be a start, but pics would be great as well....

yea when i cleaned the bay,

i pulled the car out of the garage into the sun, both times so far,

 

are you labeling your wiring?

because i kinda wanna get a keytag on EVERY SINGLE tip of the harness,

so

once i get my KA in,

its just plug and play wire wise....

 

 

is that possible?

The sun will dry things out ok.

I rarely label my wiring anymore, I can lay the full harness on the ground and pretty much be able to tell what each connector does, but thats years of working with these cars that its gotten to that point, lol.  I highly suggest you label if you disconnect (even like A--A, B--B, etc).

The KA isn't quite plug&play in terms of the ECU connectors, although mod_mastaz and I have been discussing building a plug&play subharness adapter.  

Thing is, where the engine harness connects to the body,
On the S12, its on the drivers side,
On the S13/KA/SR/etc, its on the passenger side.

So you basically need to extend wires over there.

Its pretty simple tho.

200sxkitcar The sun will dry things out ok.

I rarely label my wiring anymore, I can lay the full harness on the ground and pretty much be able to tell what each connector does, but thats years of working with these cars that its gotten to that point, lol.  I highly suggest you label if you disconnect (even like A--A, B--B, etc).

The KA isn't quite plug&play in terms of the ECU connectors, although mod_mastaz and I have been discussing building a plug&play subharness adapter.  

Thing is, where the engine harness connects to the body,
On the S12, its on the drivers side,
On the S13/KA/SR/etc, its on the passenger side.

So you basically need to extend wires over there.

Its pretty simple tho.
 

Exactly.  Once I finish the wiring how-to thread, it will be easy butter, whichever way you go.

Dude, somehow I missed your thread this week... man I gotta say, your engine bay cleanup looks amazing, great job dude

The reason why quotes don't work in that one post is because *in one post* you are only allowed to quote a limited amount of times. I want to remove that but *I have yet to find out if it's possible*.

If you use a second post right after the first, it'll combine the two into one, so that won't work, but if you wait five mins or so, your next post will remain seperate and I imagine you can have a few more quoted parts in that one.

Badass dude, I want a parking meter lamp! haha

That PS3=$$$

200sxkitcar Badass dude, I want a parking meter lamp! haha
 

At least you got a garage to work on it... I have to work on my shit outside..

eminem_rh25 At least you got a garage to work on it... I have to work on my shit outside..

UPDATE***

i give up on the KA deal,
too many looms, and hidden messages this guy is giving me,
im going to look someplace else,
but
i have some $$$ now anyways,
so
i might as well go buy TOOLS, i need alot of them,
going to order a 240 piece craftsman, just got a nice 18 inch 1/2 drive and some cool stuff,
buying these tools are going to be important down the road for me i guess,
more important then the engine itself,
still looking for a KA though  

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1373.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1375.jpg)

Thats a SWEET pic man!!!  Sell it to sears! lol

Tools,
are never a bad investment.
That is spending your money wisely, esp w/craftsman.

Another KA will pop up....

Yeah haha i love that ratchet picture, pretty awesome.

Sorry the deal fell through... I had that happen once before I found another one, and then since I knew it was a good deal I waited a couple months for it (lol poor Sterling!).

You'll get your engine set

bought another tool set,
to get a base of tools, aside from my shitty ones.

instead of getting the whole craftsman 245 piece shebang i decided to just go with a decent 190 piece one,
has alot of stuff, plus i need to buy more wrenches and such and special tools

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1378.jpg)

it feels so good to finally get this part over with lol

next im gonna look at torque wrenches, i want a large one, and a smaller one

Ok, this one is good for "in the car", but honestly, I've owned a few different "starter kit" toolsets from Craftsman, and the one you need is indeed the 245-piece set:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/arrospeed/00934245000.jpg)

I'm being straight with you here when I say that I've used just about every tool piece it came with on my S12, with the exceptions being some of the SAE-specific sockets and wrenches.

The kit you bought is perfect for an in-car set (which you should ALWAYS have), but don't short yourself, get the 245-piece. All the shit you will end up needing to add will cost more than just buying this, including the many deep sockets you absolutely need. Plus the 245-piece comes with an additional deep drawer that can hold more pieces you can add to the set, and they have a couple other accessory areas in the other drawers.

Arro Ok, this one is good for "in the car", but honestly, I've owned a few different "starter kit" toolsets from Craftsman, and the one you need is indeed the 245-piece set:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/arrospeed/00934245000.jpg)

I'm being straight with you here when I say that I've used just about every tool piece it came with on my S12, with the exceptions being some of the SAE-specific sockets and wrenches.

The kit you bought is perfect for an in-car set (which you should ALWAYS have), but don't short yourself, get the 245-piece. All the shit you will end up needing to add will cost more than just buying this, including the many deep sockets you absolutely need. Plus the 245-piece comes with an additional deep drawer that can hold more pieces you can add to the set, and they have a couple other accessory areas in the other drawers.

nice investment man, cant go wrong with that.

im torn between buying a rolling tool chest or parts for my s12 when i get my next amount of money.

mr.lonelyS12
im torn between buying a rolling tool chest or parts for my s12 when i get my next amount of money.

good job

good tools